ABOUT FABRICS

Fabrics are ever new and an inspiration to one who sews. Each year, new develop­ments in synthetic fibers and in the blend­ing of synthetic and pure fibers offer many excit­ing variations in textures and designs.

It is often difficult to distinguish the fabrics of the natural fibers from those of synthetic or blended fibers.

Silk, linen, cotton and wool are made from natural fibers and are known as the pure fabrics. Silk fibers are from the cocoon of the silkworm, cotton fibers from the cotton plant, linen from the stem of the flax plant and wool fiber from the fleece of sheep.

Synthetic fibers, such as rayon, acetate, nylon, and Dacron* polyester fiber, Orion0 acrylic fiber, etc., are made into widely used fabrics. However, some of the most interesting and durable are made by blending natural fibers with synthetic fibers.

Fabrics are of different weaves depending on the treatment of the lengthwise and crosswise threads. Fabrics with needle-like fibers standing up from the backing, such as velvet or velveteen, are known as pile fabrics. Fabrics with springy, hairy-like fibers lying in one direction are known as nap fabrics. Other fabrics, sateen’s and satins for example, have a definite sheen resulting from the weaving of long threads on the surface.

Widths vary, but are more or less standard for various types of fabrics. Cottons, linens, velve­teens and corduroys are usually 35" or 36" wide. Silks are usually 39". Nylons, rayon’s and other synthetics run from 39" to 45" wide. Wools gen­erally run around 54" or occasionally 60" in width. Imported fabrics do not always conform to our measurements and may be as narrow as 27".

When buying pattern and fabric, consider one in relation to the other: is the fabric right for the design, or the design right for the fabric? Also, are both design and fabric right for one's figure type? There is a wide assortment of patterns and fabrics for every type. Keep in mind that vertical lines tend to make one appear taller; large plaids, bold prints, horizontal lines and fabrics with a definite sheen tend to make one appear larger.

Refer to the back of the pattern envelope for suggestions as to suitable fabrics, for width and yardage required and for findings necessary to finish the garment, such as interfacing, linings, trimmings, zippers, etc.

It is not always easy to tell the right from the wrong side of a fabric. But the way cloth is rolled or folded is a good clue. Cotton and linen usually come folded with their right sides out; while silk and wool have their right sides inside. If rolled on a bolt, the right side is usually inside. Napped fabrics are softer and fuzzier on the right side. If one side of a fabric is more lustrous than the other, the shinier is usually the right. The weave, too, gives many clues. The right side is more perfect and free from irregularities, rough spots, etc. The selvage is generally smoother. Solid colored cottons  can generally be used on both sides.

☼ Dacron  is a trademark for □  polyester fiber of  the  Dupont Company.
☼ Orion is a trademark for an acrylic fiber of the Dupont Company.

Fabrics and Measurements

Fabrics for interfacing—should be pliable and never heavier than the fabric it supports.

Grain lines of fabric.

Interfacing

In certain parts of a garment one thickness of interfacing fabric is generally used between the garment fabric and its facing, such as collar, cuffs, closings, peplum, or jacket from the waistline to hem. This fabric is used to support, to reinforce, to shape, or to mold the garment.

The fabric used for interfacing should be pliable and never heavier than the fabric it supports. It should be pre-shrunk and cut on the same grain as the part of the garment it interfaces, except when used to support a sec­tion cut on the bias. Then it should be cut on the straight of the grain. This does not apply to non-woven fabrics as they have no grain. The fibers are pressed together.

Permanent finished organdy, lawn, long cloth, muslin, taffeta, tailor's canvas, non-woven interfacing such as Pel-lon and Interlon, and nylon and net may be used for light and medium weight fabrics.

Try a piece of fabric over interfacing before cutting. One would not use a crisp organdy or lawn under a soft silk. Long cloth or muslin of the right texture would be more pliable and more in keeping with the silk. Lawn, net and fine taffeta may be used as interfacing for sheer wools, medium weight silks and synthetics.

Grain

Natural, man-made and blended fibers are all used in making different types of fabrics. However, these fibers are made into yarns by a variety of different processes. This results in a wide range of yarn variations.

Because these yarns differ in weight, fineness and smoothness, they influence the texture of the fabric as well as its weight, lustre, durability, warmth and resiliency.

In the making of fabric, yarns are first threaded length­wise on a loom to form the warp of the fabric. Then a second yarn—called the weft or filling thread—is inter­laced back and forth across the first. These threads also form the lengthwise and crosswise grain lines in the fabric. The bias will be found on a diagonal line halfway between the lengthwise and crosswise threads. Fold a piece of cloth so that the lengthwise threads fall along the crosswise threads; the fold line will then be a true bias,

Straightening

Most firmly woven plain weave fabrics can be torn. Snip the selvage before you tear the material. Linens, loosely woven and nubby fabrics, novelty weaves and many others will not tear satisfactorily. To straight­en these it is necessary to pull a thread cross­wise and cut on the pulled line.

After tearing or drawing a thread of the fabric along crosswise grain check to see if the ends of the cloth are square. Line up one selvage edge of the cloth along the side of a table and the cut end in line with the end of the table. The cloth will have to be stretched to get it back in line if it is not square. This can be done by pulling along a true bias from opposite sides of the fabric. Sometimes dampening the fabric will relax the threads and make straightening easier.

Because of their finish, some fabrics such as glazed chintz, plastic and those with a crush-resistant finish, cannot be straight­ened. However, their use is quite satisfac­tory as these fabrics will not sag or lose shape during wearing, hanging or cleaning.

Before buying always examine the torn end of printed fabrics: printed checks, plaids and stripes of crosswise design. Too often they are printed off grain and are not satis­factory. Or if the garment is cut on the true grain, the design will be off and cannot be matched.

Example of fabric printed "off grain."

Pull along a true bias from opposite corners to square up fabric.

To shrink fabrics, first snip selvages.

Test  a  small  swatch   of fabric  for shrinkage, measuring before and after.

Shrinkage of Fabrics

Although most fabrics are pre-shrunk, precau­tions can be taken against further shrinkage.

To shrink fabrics, first snip the selvage and be sure both ends are straight with the crosswise thread. Cotton and linen can be immersed in warm water. The fabric should be folded lengthwise and then crosswise several times. Soak for several hours. Do not crush fabric or wring it. Hang fabric lengthwise and allow to drip. While still damp, spread fabric, folded length­wise, on a sheet on a flat surface. Smooth and straighten fabric bringing ends and selvages together. Before fabric is thoroughly dry, press with the grain of the fabric on the wrong side.

To shrink wool fabric fold it lengthwise and place on a flat surface. Cover with a damp sheet and fold the two together. Then cover with a dry cloth and let set for several hours. Spread the fabric out and straighten if necessary matching ends and the selvage edges. When fabric is thor­oughly dry steam press lightly on wrong side pressing out center fold.

If fabrics are labeled Sanforized*, guaranteed preshrunk, or ready to sew, further shrinkage is not necessary.

When in doubt about washable fabrics test a swatch to see whether or not it does shrink. Cut a square on the true lengthwise and crosswise grains and draw size on plain paper. Wet swatch thoroughly. When partially dry, press lightly. Then compare with original lines on the paper.

Cottons and linens, after immersion in water, may be partially dried and pressed with grain of fabric on wrong side.

Color

Color in dress should provide a frame for, and enhance the personality of, the wearer. Colors should be selected that will set off the face, add lustre to the hair and eyes, and a glow to the skin. It may soften the facial lines and accent one's best features. Colors should be chosen that harmonize with your accessories, as well as with the particu­lar type of dress, and with the purpose it is to serve. Do not choose a color just because it is a seasonal fashion favorite. It may not be one of your most complimentary shades. Experiment oc­casionally with new and popular colors. Make a color test. Try colors by holding samples of fabric next to your face in the best possible light. Check in natural and artificial light. If practical do so without make-up and, if the effect pleases you, then try colors with make-up.

The weight and texture of the fabric should also be considered in a color test. A shiny fabric always reflects more color than a dull, soft textured one.

Consider also your figure type. Colors of me­dium or dark values tend to make the figure ap­pear smaller or slimmer. The bright, light colors tend to emphasize size.

Your favorite color should do something for you as an individual. It should be stimulating, cheerful, give you a "lift".

Taking Measurements

When measurements are being taken, be sure to wear the foundation garments and slip that will be worn with the finished garment. It is better to take your measurements over the slip. If taken over a dress the variations in the measurements will affect the fitting.

Have ready a length of half inch wide elastic for locating the natural waistline, and a length of cotton cord or tape for the neckline and armhole. Stand before a mirror so you can be sure the tape measure is correctly placed. Use a firm, flexible, accurate tape measure.

To locate normal shoulder line, hold head erect then find the little bone back of the ear. Follow a straight line from this point to curve of neckline and across shoulder to a point about one half inch back of the little bone at the end of the shoulder. Locate seam line for armhole by plac­ing a cord or tape under the arm and up over the shoulder. Adjust tape to shoulder bone for seam line. Mark for measurement.

Also, the side seams should follow a straight perpendicular line from armpit to ankle bone, as seen from the side. The center front line should lead down from the hollow of the neck, while the center back line should lead straight down from the neck bone.

INDIVIDUALIZED   MEASUREMENTS CHART

The figures show where the measuring tape is placed in taking each measurement.

Observe closely. This chart contains your exact measurements. Use it whenever you sew to insure perfect fitting clothes. We suggest that you have this chart checked every six months at your nearest SINGER SEWING CENTER.

MEASUREMENTS TAKEN FROM RIGHT SIDE (except where otherwise designated) Consider seam allowance in checking with

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