ABOUT PATTERNS

Patterns are made to conform with cer­tain standard measurements. Allowance is made for ease or fullness at bust, across shoulder, at waistline, hip and upper arm. The amount   of  fullness   depends   on  the  type   of fabric used. Sheer fabrics, such as chiffons, net, laces, etc., require greater fullness in treatment than linens, firm crepes, cottons and woolens.

True fit of a garment begins with the proper adjustment of your pattern, but it depends on cutting along the true grain of the fabric.

On each separate piece of your pattern the lengthwise grain is indicated. This is your guide for laying out the pattern on the fabric. It is very important that all adjustments be made in line with the lengthwise marking, or, at right angles to it. Before making adjustments draw a straight line parallel, or at right angles to, the lengthwise marking. Then fold or cut pattern on this line for necessary adjustment.

CHECKINGS MEASUREMENTS

If one is above or below the average in height, or varies from standard pattern measurement at hip, waistline, etc., then certain adjustments should be made to one's pattern. To determine where adjustments should be made, first compare your pattern with your measurement chart; con­sider allowance for fullness and seams. Make no­tations as to any difference in measurements.

As a Further Check

In order to make adjustments and to study the lines of your pattern, pin blouse sections together and pin in darts, tucks, etc. Then join front and back sections of blouse, This is your first fitting, and it should be a most exacting one since the true fit of a garment begins with the pat­tern. For this fitting, and for all fitting steps in the assembly of the garment, it is most important that you wear the foundation garments and the type of shoes you expect to wear with the finished garment. Pin skirt sections together; then pin skirt to blouse. Try on pattern before full length mirror. Stand in a relaxed and natural position and examine every line carefully. Now is the time to make any changes you think desirable.

PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS

To Lengthen Waist

Slash pattern straight across be­tween the underarm and the waist­line. Spread for length required. In­sert a strip of tissue paper under the slash and pin.

To Lengthen Skirt

Slash all sections straight across the hipline. Spread sections apart evenly. Insert strip of tissue paper underneath and pin.

To Lengthen Sleeve

Determine if extra length is required above or below the elbow, or both. Slash pattern straight across and spread for extra length. Pin a strip of paper underneath.

To Shorten a Sleeve, Waist or Skirt

Lay a fold across the pattern evenly, adjusting it to the shorter length required. Place fold just where you would make the lengthening adjustment.

For Larger Waistline

Slash blouse sections from waist­line toward shoulder line. Spread each back section for one-half the total amount required across the back. Handle both front blouse sec­tions in the same manner.

Slash skirt sections from waistline down, spread so slash is adjacent to those in blouse sections. Insert a strip of paper underneath and pin,

For Round Shoulders

Cut pattern across full part of back. Raise upper section for extra length required. Insert tissue paper underneath slash so it extends from center of back to neckline. Keep center back line straight with grain of fabric. Lay a dart at the neckline to take up the amount added at center back.

For Additional Length at Back of Sleeve and for Fullness at Elbow

Slash pattern from elbow (at outside edge) to center of sleeve; then slash toward the shoulder line. Spread upper portion for length and fullness desired. Insert tissue paper beneath slash and pin.

For Full Upper Arm

A: Slash pattern from shoulder line to lower edge as shown. Spread pattern for desired width. Pin a strip of tissue paper under slash.

B: Slash pattern from shoulder line to lower edge. Fold a dart at either side of slash, tapering to underarm seam so pattern will spread for extra width required. Allow paper to extend up enough at top to restore original line of pattern.

For Square Shoulders

Slash front and back section of blouse from a point approximately 1" below shoulder line cutting toward center front and center back. Lift shoulder line the required amount. Insert strip of tissue paper and pin. Raise underarm line to equal lift of shoulder line.

For Sloping Shoulders

Slash front and back patterns and overlap edges to lower shoulder line the amount required. For balance, lower the underarm as indicated.

For Short Neck

Lay fold in back blouse pattern between upper part of shoulder and neckline to take up extra length. This adjustment eliminates the possibility of a fold in garment across the shoulders,

For Large Arm and Fullness Under Arm

Slash front and back blouse sections from under­arm toward waistline. Spread for ease required.

Slash sleeve on both sides from underarm toward center and then down toward lower part of sleeve. Spread so sleeve will correspond to armhole blouse sections. Insert strip of paper and pin,

For Full Bust line

Slash through dart across front. Then slash from shoulder line directly over bust line to waistline. Spread pattern for width and length required. Insert tissue paper underneath and pin. Take up extra width in darts. Form dart at the shoulder line if not called for in pattern.

For Low Bust line

Cut pattern just above normal bust line and spread for extra length required. Lay fold be­tween bust line and waist to take up added length, if not required.

For Low Bust and Long Shoulder Line

Slash pattern from center front to underarm seam. Slash from center of shoulder line to bust-line. Spread for length required. If extra shoulder length is not required create a dart, tapering same to just above bust line.

◄  For Full Hips

Slash pattern from bot­tom edge toward waistline as shown. Lay small dart at fullest part of hip. Taper dart to seam line. Spread slash for width desired. In­sert tissue paper.

For Full Back Hips►

Slash pattern from center back toward side seam at fullest part of hip. Spread for extra length required. Slash pattern from bottom to hipline along lengthwise grain line and swing center back line into position. If the extra width at the lower edge is not desirable, lay fold in pattern between slash and side seam. Fold should taper toward hipline.

The One Piece Fitted, or Princess Line

The one piece fitted pattern usually requires careful fitting at the waistline. When checking measurements, consider waistline position and the fitting darts extending above and below the waist. The hang of the skirt depends on good fitting at this point.

When pin fitting the pattern, check the center back length from waistline to the full part of the hip. If the pattern does not follow the contour smoothly, take up the extra length by laying a dart in the pattern from center back, tapering to a point at the side seam. If, instead, more length is required at center back, make same adjustment as given for full back hips.

Follow the usual procedure for lengthening or shortening, and for the other pattern adjustments.

To Lengthen Gored or Flared Skirt

Using the arrow as a guide, mark the length­wise grain along the full length of pattern. De­termine crosswise grain and slash pattern along it. Spread for desired length.

To Shorten Gored or Flared Skirt

Follow same instructions as for lengthening, except lay a fold on true crosswise grain to take up length.

For Large Waist

Continue lengthwise grain marking along full length of pat­tern. Draw a line on both back and front patterns parallel to lengthwise marking. Slash pat­tern from waistline on drawn line. Spread each section one-half of width required. Insert strip of tissue paper underneath and pin,

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