Step 3 PATTERN LAYOUT

You have studied your pattern and se­lected the pattern pieces for the ver­sion of the design you are going to make. You have compared measurements and made the adjustments necessary. Good fit starts with the adjustment of the pattern to your own measurements.

Check with the pattern diagram according to your size, version of design, and width of fabric. Be sure that your fabric is smooth and straight. Make certain that the straightened ends are matched. Then spread the fabric out on a table. Check the diagram for the fold of the fabric. Turn the right side of the fabric to the inside so that markings can be made on the wrong side. Pin the layers together along their edges.

Some fabrics require special handling in mak­ing a dress. Napped fabrics are fuzzy on the right side and are usually brushed in one direction so they have to be cut according to the "with nap" layout, that is, with all tops turned in the same direction. Nap fabrics like broadcloth, duvetyn, coatings, etc., are cut with the nap running down. Fabrics, such as velvet and velveteen, have a pile surface. Run your hand over a piece. One way it is rough, the other smooth. The smooth way is said to be with the pile. Velvets and velveteen’s look richer and darker when the pile runs upward, and that is the way they are usually cut.

When using fabrics with a sheen, such as satins, polished cottons and silk taffetas, place all pieces of the pattern on the fabric in the same direction.

◄Turn right side of cloth to the inside so markings can be made on the inside. Make certain that straightened ends are matched. Pin layers together at edges. Keep grain line marking on pattern parallel to selvage or fold. Hold grain line in place with pins.

Continue pinning pattern: First pin along fold lines carefully matching fold line of pattern to fold line of fabric. Use enough pins to keep pattern from slipping. Check all pattern pieces mak­ing sure to include each one

It is a good idea to ascertain the direction of lay­out by holding fabric up to you or draping it over a hanger or chair. In this way you will be able to determine the direction which brings out the most interesting highlights in the fabric.

First, make a trial layout by placing pattern pieces on the fabric as illustrated here. Check pattern pieces to be sure all facings, bands, etc. are included. You are now ready to pin the pat­tern to the fabric. Watch grain line when marking pattern. Keep it parallel to selvage or fold. Follow the same procedure for all pieces of the pattern.

Pin the pattern, first along fold lines, care­fully matching the fold line of the pattern to the fold line of the fabric. Place pins with the grain of the fabric and use enough pins to keep the fabric from slipping. Check all pattern pieces again to make sure that you have included each one be­fore cutting.

To cut, open shears wide; take long, even strokes but do not close shears to the point. Do not lift fabric up from the table when cutting. Place one hand on fabric opposite shears and keep shears on the table. As each piece is cut fold it and put to one side.

Cut carefully on cutting line with long,  even strokes. Always keep the fabric flat when cutting.

In the selection of a pattern for plaids, large and spaced prints, and striped fabrics consider care­fully the design and the construction details.

For plaids, avoid patterns with underarm and shoulder line darts and shaped joining. The use of tucks or gathers is more satisfactory for the control of ease or shaping. A dart at the waistline usually works in very well and can be changed easily to tucks or gathers. Pleats, tucks, gatherings and bands cut on the true bias are right for plaids.

PLAIDS, STRIPES AND FLORALS

When laying out plaids or stripes, plan for center of a stripe or plaid to fall exactly down center front or center back of a garment. Plaids and stripes will match if notches of corresponding pattern pieces are placed exactly on same colors and bars of the fabric.

Sections that are diffi­cult to match, such as pockets, collars and cuffs, can be cut on the bias if desired. This treatment usually adds interest to garments.

Stripes may be cut on the straight grain across the width of the fabric or on the true bias, but the stripes and the colors should match at all joining.

When selecting a pattern for fabrics with large, spaced motifs keep in mind the de­sign of the fabric in relation to the pattern. For example, the pattern should not have too many seams or irregular shaped sec­tions which would break the continuity of the fabric design. The placement of the fabric design should be carefully balanced center front and center back of skirt and bodice, and the design should match at the seam lines as evenly as possible.

When laying out plaids and stripes plan for the center of a stripe or plaid to fall ex­actly down the center front and center back of a garment. Avoid placing the bold­est lines across the fullest part of the body, such as across hips and bust. Plaids and stripes will match if the notches of corre­sponding pattern pieces are placed exactly on the same colors and bars of the fabric. Sections that are difficult to match, such as pockets, collars and cuffs, can be cut on the bias, if desired. This treatment usually adds interest to the garment.

Plaids may have an even or uneven bal­ance of bars and colors. When purchasing plaids with an uneven or a one-way design be sure the fabric is reversible. Also, allow sufficient yardage for matching vertical and horizontal bars. Choose a pattern with a center front and center back seam.
First, press the fabric then lay out the pattern on a single thickness of fabric, starting at the top. Match the vertical bars in the fabric at shoulder line, waistline, center front, and center back. Match the horizontal fabric lines at arm hole and at front, back, and side seams. Measure length used for pattern layout. Then measure the remaining length of fabric. It should be a few inches longer than the layout. Cut off the remaining length and slip the top sec­tion, with the pattern over it. Remove the pattern. Then match the design of the two fabric sections along the edge and pin. Smooth fabric with the palm of the hand. Match vertical and horizontal bars through lengthwise center and pin. Then pin cross­wise every 8 or 10". Lay out pattern. Cut.

For balanced plaids and stripes fold fabric matching bars of the design. Place seam line of pattern on center of stripe as indicated.

A two piece set-in sleeve with top seam can be cut to match the front and the back. A one piece sleeve can be cut to match the front or back, but not both. This type sleeve would be more effective if cut on the true bias.

Marking with Chalk

MARKINGS

The markings on the pattern (lines, perfora­tions, dots, triangles, squares and notches), all have a special meaning and are the keys to the correct assembly and construction of the garment. They indicate cutting lines, seam allowance, placement of darts, buttonholes and other construction details. The notches are your guide for matching the sections of the garment.

Some patterns are printed: others are printed and per­forated. All details, such as cutting lines, dart lines, stitch­ing lines, buttonholes and other construction details are indicated.

These markings should be transferred to your fabric by means of tailors' tacks, chalk or chalked thread markings before the pattern is removed.

Marking with Tailors Tacks

To make tailors' tacks use double thread, prefer­ably of soft cotton. Make a practice of using different colored threads for each type of marking.

Take one stitch through perforation in double thickness of fabric; then go over it with another stitch leaving loop and long ends.

Marking with Tailors Tacks

To mark with chalk insert a pin in each perfora­tion through both thicknesses of fabric. Chalk over the pin on top and underside.

Marking with Chalked Thread

Mark each perforation with a double thread that has been drawn several times over a piece of soft chalk as shown in the sketch below. Draw the chalked thread through each perforation. Re-chalk thread frequently.

Marking Fold Line

Mark all fold lines, such as center front and back, with a long basting stitch in contrasting col­ored thread. These are necessary for joining waist to skirt and also serve as guide lines for fittings.

Never cut deep notches. Simply lift fab­ric up, fold edges together and snip notch out:,  cutting depth  no  more  than   ⅛".
Notches

"V" shaped notches along the cutting edges of the pattern are guides for matching correspond­ing pieces. The notches can be indicated in the fabric by cutting in, or by cutting away from, the edge. The extended method of cutting is ad­visable when teaching beginners in the class­room, or groups where individual supervision is not possible.

When notches are cut in, lift the fabric up, fold the edges together, and snip the notch out with point of scissors. Cut to a depth of no more than %". For sheer fabrics, or fabrics that fray easily, cut the notches outward, or mark with tailors' tacks or chalk.

Mark all fold lines, such as center front and back, with a long basting stitch in contrasting colored thread.

Remove pattern. Separate fabric carefully and. clip threads between the two layers

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