Step 4 FITTING

prepare garment for fitting by first pin­ning in position all darts, pleats, tucks or gathers, just as you did in the pattern, before making the adjustments.  Match tailors' tacks or other marking and pin. Then baste. For darts, start at outer edge and baste along marking indicating point of dart.

Pin darts before basting. Pin tucks or pleats before basting.

About Darts, Tucks and Gathers

Next, stay seam edges at neckline, shoulder line and waistline of blouse and skirt by a line of regu­lar machine stitching made ½" from the edge. Stay stitching helps retain shape and prevents edges from stretching when fitting and handling the garment.

Stitch the shoulder line from neck to armhole, the neckline from shoulder to center front, and the center back and the waistline from side seams to center.

Pin blouse sections and shoulder seams to­gether. Then pin skirt sections together. Try on dress right side out. This fitting is to check posi­tion of darts, pleats, etc. Be sure that center front and center back line markings hang straight from neckline and waistline. Make any necessary ad­justments.
Pin tucks or pleats the same as for darts. Pleats may be top stitched, or stitched as a dart or inside tuck. Pin and baste according to method used.

Dart slashed, pressed open and pinked. Gathering to control fullness.

Stitch darts from the seam edge. Always press as you stitch

The styling of a garment may indicate gather­ing to control fullness at the shoulder, waistline, sleeves puffed or skirt joining. Place one row of stitching within the seam allowance approxi­mately 1/16" from seam line and a second row within the seam allowance 1/8" from first stitch­ing on sheer fabrics and 1/4" on medium or heavy fabrics. For fine or sheer fabrics use a No. 12 to 15 stitch length. Medium weight fabrics require a No. 8 or 10 stitch length. Draw up underneath threads evenly and adjust fullness to space desired.

Dart slashed with edges pressed toward center.

Darts that extend above and below the waist­line should be stitched up and down from the fullest part of the dart overlapping with stitching at the waistline. Clip dart at the fullest part to allow for shaping when pressed.

Darts are usually stitched from the seam edge, at the widest part of the dart, in a smooth even line to the point. Be sure the point is sharp, with 2 or 3 stitches on thread of fold and 2 or 3 stitches beyond the point.

For heavy fabrics, such as linens, woolens, etc., slash dart along fold and press open using wool press cloth. Finish edges by overcastting or pinking.

Darts at waistline, bodice, or skirt are pressed toward the center front or back. To relieve bulkiness slash dart between fold and stitching line, and press open.

Darts at waistline of jackets or princess line dresses, should be stitched from full­est part (at waistline), to the point.

Single-Thread Dart

When the fold of the dart is on the right side of garment, as at waistline or shoulder line, the single thread method of stitching is desirable:

The thread from the bobbin is threaded through the needle in the opposite direction from the usual threading.

Tie the bobbin and needle threads to­gether using small knot. Rewind spool pull­ing bobbin thread up through all threading points.

Start stitching at the point of the dart. Position needle in the very edge of fold. Draw up the slack in thread. Lower presser foot and stitch to seam edge. Machine must be re-threaded for each dart.

SINGLE-THREAD DART

Stitch from point to fullest part of dart.

SINGLE-THREAD TUCK

Stitch from end of tuck to seam line.

Single-Thread Tuck

When the fold of the tuck is to the right side of the garment, the single thread method of stitching is desirable:

The stitching begins at the end of the tuck and is finished at the seam edge. Position needle in tuck and lower presser foot. Hold­ing needle thread, turn balance wheel for­ward to form a stitch. Draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Then thread machine following the same instructions given for a dart. Backstitching is used at seam edge for reinforcement.

BUTTONHOLES

Markings indicate placement of buttonholes. Draw faint pencil lines on interfacing as stitching guides,\

Patch Method

Patterns indicate positions for buttonholes, but if adjustments are made to lengthen or shorten the blouse, or to change the bust line, then the placement of the buttonholes must be changed accordingly.

First, mark for buttonhole in line with the bust-line. Then place markings above and below for the number of buttonholes that are required. To determine the length of the buttonholes, allow approximately ⅛" more in length than the dia­meter of the button.

A lightweight fabric, such as lawn, voile, or organdy, is used as a stay for buttonholes. How­ever, it is unnecessary when interfacing is being used as they both serve the same purpose.

Markings for outside end of buttonholes are placed approximately ⅛" to left of center front. Place stay or interfacing underneath and machine baste on line of marking as indicated at A.

Measure length of buttonholes and machine baste for inside end as at B.
Machine baste positions of buttonholes across vertical lines as at C.

From wrong side of garment draw faint pen­cil lines on interfacing about ⅛" on both sides of buttonhole lines for stitching guides as at D.

Cut fabric on the crosswise grain or on the true bias 2" wide and 1" longer than the buttonhole. Cut enough pieces to make all the buttonholes.

Fold pieces through center and place fold in position for buttonhole as at E. Pin. then smooth piece flat.

From wrong side start stitching at center of a guide line using a short machine stitch. Stitch to end of buttonhole. With needle still in the cloth and on the upstroke, so stitch is complete, raise the presser bar and turn garment. Lower presser bar and stitch across the end counting the stitches.

Stitch along second guide line. Fol­lowing same procedure used at other end, turn fabric. Then, take same num­ber of stitches across the second end as you took across the first. Finish by overlapping stitches at starting point.
Stitch all buttonholes before pro­ceeding to next step.

Now cut along the center of each buttonhole to within ¼" of the ends. Then clip diagonally to the four cor­ners. Remove basting stitches. Push piece through opening to wrong side.

Press seams away from opening. Then form a fold by turning the piece to the center of the opening on either side. Press folds full width of strip.
Baste folds in place from right side.

Overcast folds together to hold shape of buttonhole. Press.
Turn garment back and stitch around buttonhole. That is, stitch across triangular points and ends of strips, and along each side of the but­tonhole just below the stitching line.

After the facing has been attached to the garment it must be slashed and hemmed to the wrong side of the but­tonhole. First, baste around each but­tonhole to keep the facing in place. Then insert a pin from the right side at each end of the buttonhole. From the under side, slash the facing be­tween the pins and hem the edges to the stitching line of the buttonhole using the point of your needle to tuck the edges of the facing under in an oval shape. (See illustration on page 37.)

When using canvas, Armo , or other heavy material as an interfacing, use a lightweight material as a stay for but­tonholes, as suggested. Then make a cutout in the interfacing a fraction wider and longer than the finished but­tonhole. Then slip opening in inter­facing under seam edges of buttonhole.

Mark position of buttonholes and baste. Steps in making the strip.

One-Piece or Strip Buttonholes

Mark the garment for position and length of buttonholes as recommended in Patch Method, on page 34.

Cut strips of fabric, one for each buttonhole, on true, lengthwise grain or true bias 1" wider and 1" longer than the finished buttonhole.

With fabric right side out, form buttonhole strip by folding edges to exact center. Press.

Place strip, with folded edges up, over marking line for buttonhole and pin across each end.

Machine stitch length of buttonhole. Pull top threads to underneath side and tie Pin strip in position, centering on line. Baste

Turn to wrong side and slash. Pull strips through to the underneath side, turning folded edges to center.

Stitch across the point and corded piping at the end of the buttonhole.
Facing of garment is slashed and slip-stitched to buttonhole.

Hand baste along the center of each fold the full length of the strip. Machine stitch buttonholes using a short stitch. Center stitching between fold and cut edge. Begin and end stitching exactly at basting lines for buttonhole length, Press. Pull the top threads to the underside and tie.
Slash through center of folded strip.

Turn garment to the wrong side and slash through center of buttonhole to within 1/4" of ends. Then cut diagonally to each corner. Turning folded edges of strip toward center of opening, pull strip through to underside so triangles at ends are turned away from opening. Press.

Turn garment to right side. Fold back and stitch points to strip at each end of buttonhole.

After the facing has been attached to the gar­ment it must be slashed and hemmed to the wrong side of the buttonhole. First, baste around each buttonhole to keep the facing in place. Then insert a pin from the right side at each end of the but­tonhole. From the underside, slash the facing between the pins and hem the edges to the stitch­ing line of the buttonhole using the point of your needle to tuck the edges of the facing under in an oval shape.

Garment marked for position of corded buttonholes.

Corded Buttonholes

To prepare corded strips for buttonhole cut fabrics on a true bias 1" wide. Fold strips length­wise and right side out; then insert cord or twine in the fold. Stitch close to the cord using adjust­able cording foot in place of regular presser foot.

For perfectly corded buttonholes the width of the spacing for the corded strips must be exact. The placement of the corded strips is determined by the weight of the fabric and the size of the cord or twine used. For lightweight fabrics, such as cottons, linens, silks and sheer woolens, the spacing, using a #9 cable cord, is approximately 3/16". For medium to heavy-weight fabrics, the spacing is approximately ¼' or more.
Always make a sample buttonhole before mark­ing garment.

Turn garment to wrong side. Above and below the position marked for buttonhole draw a faint pencil line 3/16" or ¼" (depending on the weight of fabric and cord) on stay or interfacing.

Machine or hand baste on penciled lines.
Cut bias strips 1" wide.

Fold bias strip and insert cord. Stitch close to cord.          Place corded edge along guide lines. Baste into position.

For each buttonhole cut two corded strips 1" longer than the buttonhole. Place each strip over marking so that the corded edge is away from the center line and is just touching the guide line. Hand baste in position with short stitches. Then machine stitch close to cord the length of the buttonhole using adjustable cording foot. Pull thread end through to underside and tie. Press.

Working from wrong side cut through center of buttonhole to within ¼" of ends and clip diag­onally to corners. Turn strips to wrong side, bring-.ing corded edges to center of buttonhole. Diag­onal baste corded edges together. Machine stitch triangular points to ends of corded piping,

After the facing has been attached to the gar­ment it must be slashed and hemmed to the wrong side of the buttonhole. First, baste around each buttonhole to keep the facing in place. Then in­sert a pin from the right side at each end of the buttonhole. From the underside slash the facing between the pins, and hem the edges to the stitch­ing line of the buttonhole using the point of your needle to tuck the edges of the facing under in an oval shape.

Turn to wrong side and slash on center line. Then slash diagonally to corners.

Pull corded strips through to wrong side and press. Diagonal baste corded edges together.

Turn back the garment; stitch across point of slash and strips at each end.

Machine stitch close to cord and the exact length of buttonhole.

POCKETS

Mark position of pocket, using machine basting.
Fold strip for pocket crosswise. Place fold on horizontal line, right sides of fabric together.

Stand Pocket

Machine baste the position for the opening and width of the pocket using a stay of muslin or lawn underneath.

Cut fabric strip for pocket on same grain as garment. This strip should be 1" wider, and 2" longer than twice the depth of the finished pocket. For example, if pocket is 3" in depth and the opening for stand is ½", then the length of the strip should be 3+3+1 for stand, + ½" for open­ing, + ½" length for opening in back +l¼" for seams. This totals 9¼". Fold strip crosswise 4⅜" from top of strip. Place fold line on basted hori­zontal line with right sides of fabric together.

Turn up top of pocket strip and pin or baste evenly to garment.

Stitch opening for pocket on wrong side.
Slash through S thicknesses on center line to ¼" from each end. DO NOT CUT STITCHES.

Stitch on wrong side, starting at the center ¼" from machine basting. Stitch to end of pocket. With needle in fabric, but on the upstroke so stitch is complete, raise presser bar and turn gar­ment. Then lower presser bar and stitch across the end about ½" counting the number of stitches. Turn again and continue stitching along other edge. Taking the same number of stitches as you took at the opposite end. Overlap stitches at start­ing point. Press.

Cut through the three thicknesses on center basting line to about ¼" from each end. Then cut diagonally to corners taking care not to cut the machine stitching.

Turn strip (pouch) through to underside and press slashed edges away from opening.

Draw up lower part of pouch to fill opening and to form a stand or welt. Press.

Stitch through seam around slash and through pouch to support the stand.
Press down back section of pouch and press seam open at top. Stitch the two sections of the pouch together. Stitch across points at ends of pocket. Remove all basting stitches. Press.

Turn strip  (pouch) through to underneath side. Press. Draw up lower part of pouch to fill opening.

Stitch through to seam of slash and   pouch   to   support   stand.

Press down back section of pouch and press seam open at top.  Stitch sections of pouch together.
Stitch across points at ends of pocket. Press.

Welt Pocket

With machine basting mark position for open­ing and width of the pocket as indicated by mark­ings on pattern. Place a stay of lawn or muslin underneath and stitch through the two thicknesses of fabric.

For the welt cut a piece of fabric, on the same grain as the pocket, approximately 2" long and the width of the pocket plus seam allowances (approximately 1¼"). The welt should be interfaced if the fabric is not firm enough to stand well. Cut interfacing of lawn or muslin the same size as welt and fold through the center. Place fold of interfacing along center of welt and on the wrong side. Machine baste. Press.

Fold welt, right sides together. Stitch across ends back stitching at fold. Trim and blend end seams as illustrated. Then turn welt right side out, Press. Machine baste raw edges together.

Mark position of pocket on right side of garment.
Pin and baste right side of welt in position with raw edges touching slash line.

STEPS IN MAKING THE WELT (1) Cut piece of fabric length of pocket plus seam allowance. Interface if nec­essary. (2) Fold welt and stitch across ends. (3) Turn, press and baste raw edges together.

Place the right side of the welt next to the garment with raw edges touching the center line, Pin and baste in position.
Pin and baste pocket sections to place over welt.

On the wrong side stitch on basting lines at either side of center line. Do not stitch across ends. Pull thread through to the wrong side and tie. Press.

Cut along center line to approximately ¼' from ends. Then cut diagonally to the four corners.

Turn pocket sections through to the wrong side and turn up welt to cover opening. Press all seam edges away from the opening. Turn down back section of pocket and press. Pin pocket sections together and stitch catching points at ends of pocket securely.

Slip-stitch welt at each end on right side of garment.

Slip-stitch welt at each end.
Pin and baste pocket sections in place. Stitch along seam line the length of pocket. Press. Slash on center line and clip diagonally to corners. Pull pocket section through to wrong side.
Turn up lower section to cover opening. Press. Stitch pocket sections together.

Patch Pocket

Mark position of pocket by use of basting line at top edge of pocket. If shown with pattern, mark with tailors' tacks before removing the pattern,
Turn top edge of pocket to wrong side *4" and stitch on the edge of fold. Press. Then turn hem allowance to the right side and stitch across ends, backstitching 3 or 4 stitches at fold edge.

Blend seams at end of hem and slant seams to fold.
Run a row of machine stitching around curve of pocket approximately ½" from the edge.

Turn hem to the wrong side keeping corners sharp. Press.
Draw up machine stitching around curve of pocket, turning seam allowance evenly.

Steam press turned edge to shrink fullness and crease fold.
Trim seam allowance to approximately ⅜". Then snip out folds from gathering stitch to seam edge to relieve fullness.
Pin pocket in position and top stitch on very edge or slip-stitch in place.
Patch pockets are often lined with a lighter weight fabric or, to be decorative, with a con­trasting fabric and color.

Trim and blend seam. Machine baste curve of pocket.

Hem turned and stitched across each end.

If entire pocket is lined, cut lining the same as the pocket. Place the right side of pocket and lin­ing together and stitch around pocket leaving a small opening on one side. Press.

Blend seams, clip across the corners and turn pocket to the right side. Be sure turn is on the stitching line and' that corners are sharp. Press. Slip-stitch opening. Pin pocket in position on garment and slip-stitch taking short stitches.

If lined pocket is curved at lower edge, blend seam. Then notch around outside curve to re­lieve bulk when seam is turned to inside.

Pull basting thread, turning seam allowance to wrong side even with hem. Press.
Pin pocket in position and stitch.

Stitch pocket and lining together. Trim seams. Turn pocket to right side. Slip-stitch opening.
Slip-stitch pocket to garment.

Decorative Pocket

Prepare fabric for pouch, complete with stay, marking width and position as suggested for a stand pocket on page 40. Use lawn or muslin on the wrong side to reinforce the pocket. Draw the design of the pocket on the stay. Top of the de­sign should come to ¼" below center line.

Start stitching at center of top line, using a short stitch. Take exactly the same number of stitches across each end and pivot fabric on needle at each corner. Overlap stitches at the starting point. Press.

Cut through the 3 thicknesses of fabric to ¼" of ends. Then clip diagonally to corners. Trim carefully around scallops, leaving approximately ⅛" seam. Press.

Turn pocket to the wrong side. Carefully shape scallops, points or other design. Press seam away from opening at top and ends. Press design as turned keeping corners or points sharp.

Pin stay for pocket to wrong side of gar­ment. Pin pocket section to right side of garment, Mark position of pocket on stay.
Machine baste position lines. Draw design of pocket on stay.

Stitch on seam lines, Press, Then slash through center. Clip to corners and trim carefully around design,

Turn up lower portion of pocket section to cover opening and form the welt. Pin and baste.
Press down top section of pouch fabric and pin sections together.
Turn back garment and stay. Stitch across the ends of the pockets and stitch the pouch sections together. Press.

Finished pocket.
Turn pouch to wrong side. Turn up lower section to cover slash. Press.
Turn down top section, Press. Stitch pouch sections together.

MANY LOVELY DESIGNS may be made by arrangement of points, the use of contrasting materials, or decorative buttons

.

Pockets are always a fashion favorite.

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