Step 6 SEAM FINISHES

A seam is the joining together of two or more edges of fabric. Line in dress con­struction is  expressed through seams, just as the artist expresses line through brush strokes. Well made seams should be smooth, flat and practically invisible unless emphasized by some special treatment.

For strength and long wear, seams should be machine stitched. The stitches should be the cor­rect length for the fabric texture and run evenly in line the full length of the seam.

The established steps for forming seams are first to pin seam edges at each end, at notches and at center, finally working toward the edges. The second step is to hand baste, the third to stitch, the fourth to press, the -fifth to finish.

STAYED  AND  PINKED  SEAM

Run a row of machine stitching (20 stitches to inch) ¼" from edge and pink. The stitching helps prevent the seam from curling.

EDGED-STITCHED

Turn under seam edge a full ⅛" and stitch on fold using the regular presser foot or the edge-stitcher attachment.

BOUND SEAM—by machine Run a row of stay stitching ⅛" from the seam edge and press. Bind seam edges using a No. 5 bias binding of silk or cotton—depending on the fabric used and on the binder attachment. This is a practical finish for unlined jackets.

BOUND  SEAM—by hand Press open one side of folded bias binding. Stitch to edge of seam with right sides together. Turn folded edge of bias over seam and finish by hand taking stitches a scant ⅛" apart.

OVERCAST EDGES—by hand

Run row of stitching ⅛" from edge. Using a fine needle and matching thread, take slanted over and under stitches to line of stitching. Thread should not be drawn taut. This is a smooth finish for soft, sheer materials.

OVERCAST EDGES—by machine

Overcasting is accomplished quickly and easily with a zigzag attachment or the zigzag sewing machine. This is a smooth edge finish for seams and fabrics that fray easily. Edges may be overstitched, A, or stitched and trimmed, B.

RIP-PROOF OR LINGERIE SEAM

Press both edges of seam to one side. Using either a zigzag attachment or zigzag machine, top stitch with a fine zigzag stitch letting the needle enter the channel of the seam, then the seam thickness. Blend lower edge of seam shorter than the other to relieve bulk. This is a strong smooth finish for seams in children's clothes and lingerie.

LAPPED SEAM

This is a smooth flat joining for interfacing or interlining. Lap seam edges matching seam line and stitch with multiple zigzag on seam line. Trim excess width from seam edges.

NECKLINES

1. Pin and baste the facing and the inter­ facing to the collar.
2. Cut away the interfacing at point of collar before stitching, to avoid bulkyness. Stitch and press,
3. Trim interfacing to seam line. Trim facing to approximately ⅛" from stitch­ing and trim the collar to approximately 3/16" from the stitching. Press.

Cut interfacing away from point of collar before stitching to avoid bulkiness

Sketch shows cross section of blended seam turned to inside.  Seam is eased slightly to underneath side.

Stitching a Collar

Pin interfacing to wrong side of collar facing so markings match. Then pin facing to collar with right sides together. Cut away interfacing at point of collar to avoid bulkiness. Baste the three layers of fabric together. Then stitch and press as stitched.

Trim interfacing to seam line.
Trim collar facing to approximately ⅛" from stitching and the collar to 3/16". Cut seam di­agonally across the point. Press seam open.

Turn collar to the right side. Ease the seam line to under side, baste and press.

Attaching Collar

After facing has been stitched to front of blouse, clip neckline at frequent intervals almost to stay stitching. Pin collar facing to neckline across the back from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, leaving upper collar free. Then pin collar interfacing and facing, matching joining markings.

Place blouse facings over collar so markings match and right sides are together. Pin and baste front edge to shoulder seam. Clip collar the depth of seam at shoulder line. Baste collar facing to neckline across back. Complete collar application by stitching continuously from one front edge to the other, leaving top collar free across, back. Press seam as stitched.

Clip neckline to stay stitching.

Position for attaching collar: blouse is right side out, collar right side out around neckline with collar  ends  between  the  blouse  and facing.

Pin collar to neckline, matching joining markings.
Turn facing to collar, right sides of fac­ing and blouse together with marks matched. Pin and baste to shoulder line.

Clip collar the depth of seam at shoulder.

Pin and baste the collar facing to neckline leaving top of collar free across the back.

Clip seam at shoulder line and press toward collar. See detail below for pressing of seam.Stitch. Press. Trim and blend seam.

Turn under edge of collar and slip-stitch across back. (Above) Part of the collar has been cut away to show edge turned under.

Trim and blend the seam. Press seam into collar, Turn under edge of collar. Pin to neckline across the back and slip-stitch,

If fabric stretches easily, stitch straight seam binding to neckline seam across the back as a stay. Steam press tape before using.

Tin and baste right side of collar to facing, and collar facing to neckline. Match notches and other markings.

For the ease and softness necessary when a collar is to be worn open, stitch under-collar to the neckline and the collar to the blouse facing.

Pin and baste right side of collar to facing and collar facing to neckline, matching notches and other markings.

Stitch facing to neckline to within ¼" of collar seam as at X. Stitch collar to blouse facing from A to B. Then stitch under collar to neckline from C to D.

Press seam as stitched. Trim and clip seam almost to line of stitching. Press seam open.
Slip-stitch seams together as from X to Y.

Finish collar across back as shown on previous page.
Stitch to approximately ¼" of collar seam as at X. Then stitch from A to B; then from C to D.

Press seams open and trim corner.
Slip-stitch seams together as from X to Y. Finish across back of neck, as illustrated on previous page.

Stitch on right side an even distance from seam line.

Zipper Opening for Neckline or Fitted Sleeve

Leave an opening ¾" longer than the zipper. Machine baste zipper opening closed. Press seam open.

Place right side of zipper on seam line with top of zipper chain ¾" from edge of opening. Pin and hand baste zipper to seam using long and short basting stitches.

Stitch on the right side an even distance from the seam line using the adjustable zipper foot. The end of the opening may be stitched straight across or to a point, as illustrated, In either case, use the same number of stitches on both sides of the seam.

When making a long closure, as at center front or center back of a one piece dress or house coat, it is often better to stitch both sides in the same direction.

Machine baste opening.
Place top side of zipper on seam line.

BIAS STRIPS

Mark width for bias strips measuring from fold.

Cutting Bias Strips

The bias in fabrics is the diagonal line halfway between the crosswise and lengthwise grains. For a true bias, fold fabric so a lengthwise thread lies evenly along a crosswise thread. The true bias lies along this fold. Press the fold lightly.

Mark the width for bias strips measuring from the fold.
A bias gauge is helpful when cutting bias with­out measuring. First, cut on the fold. Set the gauge for the width desired and place on point of scissors.

Join bias strips on the lengthwise grain. Main­tain evenness of strips by extending points beyond the edges just the width of the seam—¼".

Position needle at point of crossing and stitch. Press seam as stitched; then press seam open.

Join bias strips on lengthwise grain.
Position needle at point of crossing and stitch.
Press seam open.
Seam Finishes, Necklines, Joining

Attaching cuff with a bias facing.

Facing turned up to cover blended seam edges. Hem by hand.

Attaching Collar or Cuff

Round collars and cuffs can be attached to the garment with either a fitted facing or a true bias strip.

Cut bias strip 1¼" wide. Place cuff or collar to right side of garment. Pin and baste. Place bias strip to cuff or collar, right sides together, and pin. Join bias strip on the lengthwise grain. Stitch and press. Then trim seam and blend edges. Turn sleeve to the wrong side. Press seam and bias to sleeve over press mitt or end of sleeve board, Turn the edge of bias facing under ¼" and hem by hand using a slanting stitch. Press.

Turn edge under approximately ⅛" and stitch. Turn hem. Press and pin. Fold back hem and slip-stitch by hand to conceal stitches.

Plain Hem

Sleeves are often finished with a plain hem. Hems may be turned up, as in a cuff.

To finish, turn under edge approximately ⅛" and stitch on fold. Turn hem the width required. Press and pin.

Fold back hem and slip-stitch by hand to con­ceal stitches.

Shaped or Fitted Facings

Necklines, shaped sleeve edges, armholes and lower edge of jackets are often finished with a fitted facing.
Seam ends of facing and press seam open.

Finish the top, or outer edge of facing, by turning edge under and stitching, or by applying straight or bias seam binding.

Pin facing to garment matching seams and notches. Stitch and press. Blend seam and press seam to facing.

Turn facing to inside of garment easing seam under slightly. Press. Pin or baste facing to position and hem by hand.

Corded Edge Finish

Fine cording is favored for fin­ishes on necklines, collars and waist joining. Corded finishes are used on children's clothes, blouses, dresses, robes and formals. To make the cording cut bias strips 3 times the width of the cord plus 1¼". Fold the strip through the center and place cord in the fold. Stitch, using adjustable cording zipper foot.

To apply, pin cording to right side of garment. Stretch the seam allowance on an outside curve and ease seam allowance on inside curve.

Machine stitch to garment sec­tion. Pin facing in place. Hand baste if necessary. Stitch with fac­ing down and crowd against cord while stitching so as to conceal first machine stitching,

Apply facing following same procedure used for corded seam. Trim garment and facing seam to ¼", and cording seam to ⅛". Notch seam at full part of curve.

Press the seam as stitched. Blend the seam edges. Turn fold to stitching on wrong side. Hem by hand using a slanted hemming stitch.

When finishing a curved edge ease the bias to the full part of the curve. Blend the seam and -finish it as you would for a straight edge.

Edge Finishes for Sheer Fabrics

Cut bias strip 2¼" wide. Fold through center, right side out, and press. Pin folded bias to right side matching seam edges. Stitch, taking full seam allowance. Trim all seam edges to a scant ¼". Press as stitched. Turn binding over seam edge to stitching line on underside. Hand sew using a slanted hemming stitch. When binding an inside or outside curved edge, stay stitch close to the seam line to prevent stretching. Binding is stretched slightly when applied to an inside curve.

Rolled Edge Finish

When using very sheer or soft fabrics the rolled edge is a fine finish, particularly for scarf’s, sashes, or flounces.

Machine stitch and trim seam allowance a scant ⅛" from the stitching. Turn edge to the wrong side just above stitching line.

With fine needle and matching thread take a stitch through fold, then diagonally into garment catching only a single thread, then diagonally into fold, etc. When you have made about an inch of these diagonal stitches pull thread to draw fold down and thus form a neatly rolled edge

Take stitch through fold, then di­agonally in garment picking up a thread along edge, then in fold, etc.
When you have com­pleted about an ineh of these diagonal stitches, pull thread, drawing fold down to form rolled edge.

JOININGS

Bodice Over Skirt

When skirt is either gathered or pleated the waistline seam should be turned to the bodice to relieve bulkiness so the gathers or pleats will hang smoothly. The gathers or pleats should be adjusted to the waist measurement. Pin and baste bodice to skirt matching center front and back basting lines and other markings for joining.

Another method is to turn under seam allow­ance of bodice and set bodice to skirt, matching joining markings. Pin. Slip-stitch bodice to skirt. Remove pins. Turn garment to the wrong side and stitch seams in the usual way following line of slip-basting.

To finish seam, stitch seam again about ¼" from the first row of stitching. Pink edges and overcast.

Skirt Over Bodice

On plain, gored, or full skirts which are at­tached to a plain bodice the seam allowance should turn to the skirt. The side underarm seams of bodice and skirt should be stitched separately, pressed, and the edges finished before joining. The left side seams have an opening for the placket.

Pin skirt and bodice together matching joining markings. Baste. Then stitch and press. To stay the waistline stitch seam binding just below first stitching. Always shrink seam binding by steam pressing before using.

If the fabric is very heavy, the waistline seam is often pressed open. Then a row of stitch­ing is run about ¼" from seam on either side and edge is pinked.

To Stay a Waistline

To stay the waistline of a skirt, and for ease in fitting, use straight seam binding. Cut pre-shrunk binding to the waist measurement, plus the seam allowances. Pin skirt to scam binding. The slight ease in the skirt should be evenly dis­tributed. Stitch binding to skirt and press.

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