Step 7 SETTING IN SLEEVES

one or two rows of machine stitching, slightly shorter than stitch length used in dress construction, are used to control ease in the cap of the sleeve. The first row of stitching is placed a scant 1/16" outside the seam line from notch to notches. Place second row, if desired, Vs" from first row.

Run a row or two of machine stitching from notch to notches  to   control  ease.

Pin sleeve into the armhole holding inside of sleeve toward you. Roll seam line over fingers of the left hand matching notches, shoulder, and underarm seams.

Pin sleeve to armhole. Pull thread to adjust ease.

Pull up threads at front and back to adjust ease from notches to within ½” of shoulder seam. Pin and baste. Remove pins and steam press seam over a press mitt to line of basting. Then stitch in sleeve. Remove basting and row of control stitch­ing. Press seam as stitched.

Always turn seam toward sleeve except when the sleeve is gathered and very full. Then seam is turned toward the neckline.

To finish armhole seams, run a row of machine stitching approximately ¼" from first stitching. Either pink the edges or trim the seam close to row of stitching. Then overcast the two edges together.

The armhole of an unlined jacket may be bound using bias seam binding. See instructions for bound seam on page 64.

Press and clip curve of seam Pin length of bias fabric or tape      over seam.

Clip and press seam open. Baste strip  of  same   fabric  or   bias binding to seam.

Drop Shoulder Sleeve

To relieve the strain on the under­arm seam and insure comfort and wear-ability, the seam should be reinforced at the inside curve. Press and clip seam at underarm curve. Press seam open. Use seam tape, bias seam binding. or a bias strip of the same fabric for the stay. Pin stay over seam line and stitch to clipped edges of seam.

Another method is to stitch under­arm seam with a narrow zigzag stitch using a zigzag attachment or a zigzag machine. Clip seam at curve and press open. Then baste a strip of bias bind­ing, or a bias strip of the same fabric, to the curve. From the right side, stitch over the seam with a narrow zigzag stitch.

Stitch stay to the clipped edges     of the seam. Reinforce  seam   with  narrow    zigzag stitch from right side.

PLACKETS

Dress Placket

Before the zipper is inserted in a dress under construction the bodice and skirt sections should be joined at the waistline, The left, side seam should be open above and below the waistline the length of the zipper plus ½",
Machine baste opening accurately matching the waistline seams. Press the seam open over the curve of a press mitt to retain shaping over hip.

Place pins across the seam, but not through the dress, at ends of permanent stitching.

Turn under back seam ⅛" from machine basted seam. Position zipper to fold with bridge of zipper ⅛” below permanent stitching of bodice and with bottom stop against bottom pin.

Pin fold to zipper tape along edge of metal, easing seam slightly. Then hand baste.

Attach adjustable zipper foot to machine so foot is to left of needle. Turn the latch of the zip­per forward. Stitch near edge of the fold from bottom upward. Remove the basting and turn latch of zipper down.

Turn dress to right side smoothing front of dress over zipper. Press zipper into position with fingers of left hand.

Machine baste opening. Press seam open. Pin across seam at ends of permanent stitching,Position zipper to fold with bridge of zip­per Vs" below permanent stitching and bot­tom stop at end of basting. Pin and baste.

Turn zipper latch forward. Stitch from bottom upward, near edge of fold,

From right side, pin zipper in position so pins are at right angles to seam and under metal part of zipper. Alternate direction of pins. Hand baste an equal distance from seam.

Adjust zipper foot to right of needle. Stitch across lower end and upward following basting lines. Remove basting thread.

Press from right side over a press mitt. Use a press cloth over fabric when pressing from right side. Remove machine basting under back of side seam by clipping the thread every 4 or 5 stitches and lifting out.

Pin zipper in position from right side. Insert pins cross­wise tinder metal in alternating directions. Baste.

From right side stitch across lower end and upward at even distance from side seam.

Baste after pinning. Take series of back and forward stitches the full length of the opening.

Hand Finished Zipper Insertion

The final step for inserting a zipper is often done by hand when using fine, lightweight and sheer fabrics.

Using a fine needle and matching thread, and starting at the bottom of the zipper, bring needle through from underneath at seam line. Take a back stitch across only one thread; then bring needle point up through fabric about ⅛" from the back stitch. Continue sewing, a stitch back, then forward, along basting line and across top.

For ease in closing zipper, and to hold waist­line seam to waistline, attach a tab of ribbon or seam binding to underside of back waistline seam. Sew a hook to end of tab and an eye to front seam. This holds the opening together at the waist­line making it easier to close the zipper.

For ease in closing zipper, attach tab of ribbon or seam binding to waistline seam. Sew on hook and eye.

Press seam open. Place stay stitch­ing ⅜" from seam edge on each side.

No Pin or Baste Method

You may find the following method for zipper application a simple one.
Fit dress in the usual way before applying zipper. Machine baste placket opening as shown on page 79. Press seam open. Place stay stitching (regular length machine stitching) %" from seam edge on each side of placket opening.

Open zipper. Place face down on back seam allowance with edge of teeth at seam line and bottom stop at end of basting. Stitch to scam al­lowance alongside zipper.

Close zipper. Turn zipper face up. Smooth back seam allowance at edge of zipper and stitch, to tape.

Turn the zipper face down flat on the seam. Stitch across the lower end, alongside of zipper, and across the top.

Remove machine basting from seam line. Press.

Turn zipper face down -flat on the seam. Stitch across lower end, alongside zipper and across top

Close zipper. Turn zipper face up. Smooth back seam allowance at edge of zipper and stitch to tape.

The Skirt Placket

The skirt is fitted the same careful way as a dress is fitted. The placket opening should be one inch longer than the zipper, The zipper is set into the skirt before the band is applied. Select a skirt placket zipper.

Machine baste the opening on the fitting line and press seam open over a press mitt to retain the shape of the seam.
Follow the same procedure as given for dress placket on page 79.
Allow ¾" at top of skirt for belt joining and zipper closing.

An underlay lends support to the skirt band at the back and serves as a guard.

The underlay may be a double or single lengthwise piece. When finished it should measure 1" or 1¼" wide and the full length of the zipper tape.

Place zipper, right side up on underlay with back edges together. Stitch near edge of tape.

Follow the instructions for inserting a zipper in a dress. Be sure the underlay is turned back for lasting stitching, as shown.

Turn seam back under, then place fold to zip­per. Pin and baste.An underlay may be a double or single lengthwise piece. Place zip­per right side up on underlay, edges together. Stitch near edge of tape.

Be sure underlay is turned back for last stitch­ing.  Stitch from bottom alongside zipper.

Underlay turned back for final stitching

Applying Belt

Cut a piece of fabric lengthwise and twice the width of finished belt plus seam allowances and the length of waist mea­surement plus scam allowances and over­lap at closing. Crease belt through center.

Cut lining of lawn, organdy or muslin twice the width of finished belt. Fold through center and press.

Stitch lining to back of belt just below creasing and along opposite edge. Pin. Baste and stitch belt to skirt, right sides together. Skirt should be eased slightly to the band. Press seam up to belt. Turn under seam allowance on belt and press.

To finish the ends of front overlap fold belt on crease, right sides together. Stitch overlap to a point or slant. Press and trim
m.

Turn belt to underside and press. Pin and baste. Finish by hand taking short, slanted hemming stitches.

For overlap turn under seam allowance. Fold belt, right sides together. Stitch across end of overlap shaping to point or slant.

Run row of stay stitching at waistline within seam allowance.

Another Method of Applying Belt

Another good method, especially for silks and sheer fabrics, is to run a row of stay stitching at waistline within seam allowance. Prepare length for belt, complete with lining, etc., as suggested in illustrations on page 83.
Turn under seam allowance on right side of belt.

Pin, baste and stitch to right side of skirt. Turn belt to wrong side. Turn under seam allowance and hem by hand.

If top stitching is not desired, place belt over skirt, right sides together. Pin and stitch. Then press.

Trim away seam allowance close to lining at back of belt.
Steam press seam tape and stitch to belt so that edge of tape barely covers edge of belt. Press.

Finish ends of belt as shown in illustrations at bottom of page 83.
Sew edge of seam binding to skirt by hand, using a fine needle and matching thread.

Turn wider seam allowance. Pin to right side of skirt and stitch,
If top stitching is not desired, place belt over skirt, right sides together. Pin and stitch. Press.

Trim, away the seam allowance to lining at back of the belt. Stitch seam tape to belt so the edge of the tape barely covers edge of belt. Hem by hand.

Continuous Bound Opening

Stay stitch point of slash with 20 length stitch before slashing opening.
Cut a strip of fabric, on lengthwise grain, 1¼" wide and twice as long as the opening.

Pin strip and opening together taking ¼" seam and drawing point of slash about 3/16" from edge of strip. Stitch and press.

Turn under edge of strip ¼" and fold over seam edge to stitching line.  Pin and baste. Either machine stitch or finish by hand using a short hemming stitch.

Stitch strip and opening together taking ¼" seam. Draw point of slash about 3/16" from edge of strip. Press.

Tarn under edge of strip, and fold over seam edge to stitching line. Pin and baste. Then machine stitch or finish by hand.

Finishing a Slash at Neckline or Sleeves in Sheer Fabric

Stay stitch point of slash with 20 length stitch before slashing,

Turn folded edge over seam edge stitching line.  Finish by  hand.

Cut a strip of the same fabric on true bias 4 times the width of finish desired and twice as long as the opening. Stitch strip to slash taking a seam ¼ the width of bias strip. Press. Then turn edge of bias back to same width as seam and bring fold over the seam edge to line of stitching. Finish by hand.

Stitch bias strip to slash taking seam ¼ width of bias strip. Press.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here...