Step 8 HEMS AND FINISHES

The garment should be practically fin­ished before marking the hem. A skirt that hangs smoothly is a result of cor­rect pattern adjustment, proper consideration for fabric grain and good pressing. Be sure all seams are finished and pressed, and markings and bast­ings are removed (except skirt center front and center back bastings). Try on dress for final in­spection and fitting wearing foundation garment, slip and shoes that will be worn with the dress. If adjustments in fit are necessary, make them before marking the hemline. Mark hemline with pins or chalk an even distance from the floor. The one taking the skirt length should move around the person to avoid any shifting of posture.

Turn hem on chalk line. Pin and baste hem lA" from fold.

Place control stitch lA" from top edge of hem.

Draw under thread from seam to seam to ease fullness.

Turn the hem on the chalk or pin line. Blend seams to one-half their width from edge to fold of hem. Pin. Then baste hem ¼" from fold using fine needle and silk thread.

With point of iron press fold towards the top of the hem.
Measure width of hem and cut away the excess.

To control fullness at top of hem, place control stitch ¼" from edge and from seam to seam using the same stitch length as used when making the garment. This is not necessary for straight line skirts.

Draw under thread from seam to seam to ease fullness. This edge should be slightly easier than body of skirt.

Shrink fullness by steam pressing over press mitt.
Straight or bias binding is often used to finish this hem.
Always steam press straight seam binding be­fore applying.

Pin seam binding to top of hem with edge of binding covering control stitching line.
Stitch binding to hem. If using bias binding, it may be applied like any inside seam.

Pin and hand baste hem to skirt ¼" from edge of binding.
Hem by hand. Using a fine needle and thread, catch a single thread of the skirt and then a stitch in the edge of seam binding. Avoid drawing stitches too tightly.

Hem may be blind-stitched on the machine using a zigzag attachment or the zigzag machine. Refer to machine or attachment instruction book.

Seam binding covering control stitching line at top of hem.Hem may be machine blind stitched with a zigzag attachment.

Baste hem to the skirt ¼" from edge of binding for machine blind stitching.

Edge-stitched Hem

Turn edge of hem and machine stitch along fold. Pin and baste hem in place. Hem by hand, using a fine needle and matching thread. Take a stitch in fold, then a tiny stitch in fabric directly under fold. Slanting the needle, place stitches ap­proximately ¼" apart.

Hem may be blind-stitched with a zigzag at­tachment or a zigzag sewing machine.

Hem may be blind stitched with the zigzag machine.

Catch-stitched Hem

Either straight or bias seam binding may be used. Steam press straight seam binding before applying.

The seam binding may be top stitched to the hem or the bias seam binding may be applied with an inside seam. Press. Then baste hem to skirt. Catch-stitch hem by taking a stitch in bind­ing, then a stitch over the edge of the binding in the skirt, catching only a single thread. Direct needle toward you and work away from you.

Hem edge finished with bias binding and catch-stitched.

Pinked Hem — Blind catch-stitched

This hem is often used for jersey, silk, wool, crepe, etc. Machine stitch edge of hem about ¼" from edge and pink. Hand baste hem in place about 1/4" from pinked edge.

Catch-stitch hem in place, taking stitches be­tween pinked edge and the skirt. Turn back pinked edge along stitching line with left hand as you hem.

Catch-stitch between hem and skirt.

Press seam open to top of hem. Blend seam from edge to fold of hem.

Hem Across Pleat

Where seam edges are pressed together, clip seam to stitching line at the top edge of hem. Press seam open inside hem and blend seam from edge to turn of hem. This eliminates some thickness so that the seam inside the pleat may be pressed sharply.

Turn hem. Pin and baste. Finish by hand,

Proceed to turn hem. Pin and baste to skirt. Finish by hand using method best suited to fabric.

Circular Hems

The garment with a very full skirt, gored or circular, should hang for a day or two to allow for any stretching of the fabric that may occur, before marking the hem.

Mark the hem length. Then trim away excess length ¼" below marking. Stitch bias binding (right side of binding to right side of skirt) ⅛"
from edge of skirt. Stitch on folded edge of bind­ing. Press

Press seam edge to skirt. Turn hem on hemline and turn bias up to skirt. Pin and baste. Finish by hand taking short even stitches.

If stiffening is desired, use a ¾" or 1" width of horsehair braid instead of the bias binding.

Stitch bias binding ⅛" from edge of skirt stretching edge slightly as you stitch. Turn bias to skirt, and seam to fold of hem. Pin and baste. Finish by hand.

MAKINGS BELTS

Belts should be made over a stiff belting. Use belt backing, or woven duck belting which has neither bind­ing or boning. Cut belting 4" longer than waist measurement. Shape the end of the belting. Cut piece of fabric on lengthwise grain, twice the width of the belting plus ¾" for seam allow­ance, and 2" longer than the finished belt.

Stitch fabric, right side up, to back of belting, overlapping fabric on belt­ing ⅜". Fold fabric over edge of belting.   Then  form   second  fold  in fabric along opposite edge of belting, right sides together. Turn back re­maining seam allowance even with first edge. Pin at point and along the edge for 3" or 4" to make sure the folds are on the lengthwise grain.

Stitch just outside shaped belting, back stitching at either end. Trim seam and turn fabric over point and full length of belting, Pin folded edges to­gether. To finish by hand, slip-stitch folded edges. For a machine stitched finish, stitch around entire belt from right side.

Covered Belts

Cut belting fabric 4" longer than waist measurement. Shape point.
Cut piece of covering fabric on lengthwise grain, twice the width of belting plus seam allow­ances, and 1" longer than the finished belt.
Fold fabric around belting, wrong side out.

Attach adjustable cording zipper foot to ma­chine instead of presser foot.
Stitch against edge of belting along the side.
Move fabric around belting bringing seam to center. Press seam open and trim to ¼".

Stitch point just outside edge of belting, back stitching at each edge. Trim seam at point and withdraw belting. Turn belt to right side and press. Insert belting. Cup edges of belting slightly between thumb and forefinger for easy insertion of belting.

Stitch around belt on the right side, if desired.Fold fabric around belting, wrong side out. Stitch against edge of belting.

Move fabric around belting bringing seam to center. Trim to ¼. Stitch point just outside edge of belting, back stitching at each edge. Trim point. Withdraw belting.

Insert belting. Cup edges of belting slightly between thumb and forefinger.

Lined Soft Belt

Cut piece of fabric lengthwise, twice the width of finished belt, plus seam allowance, and 5" longer than waist measurement.
Fold strip lengthwise bringing wrong sides to­gether. Press.
Cut lining of lawn, muslin, or organdy twice width of belt plus ⅛".
Fold lengthwise through center and press.

Place folded edge of lining to creased line of fabric on wrong side so lining extends ¼" from the end. Stitch on fold. Press.
Fold belt on creased line, right sides together, and stitch 1/16" from edge of lining.

Stitch to a point taking one stitch beyond lining and taking one stitch across point. Press. Trim point and blend seam. Turn belt to right side and press.

Machine stitch around belt, if desired.
Fold belt on creased line bringing right sides to­gether. Pin and .stitch just outside edge of lining.

Machine stitch around belt, if desired.  Press. Trim point and blend seam.

Belt Carriers

A carrier should be slightly longer than the width of the belt Use double thread and knot ends together. Bring needle through from wrong side above belt line. Then take stitch be­low belt line. Leave a little slack in thread. Work back and forth 2 or 3 times. Blanket-stitch over strands of thread drawing stitches firm. Fasten last stitch securely on under side.

Chain Stitch Carrier

Use double thread and knot ends together.
Bring needle through from wrong side above belt line. Take a small stitch at this point and draw thread part way through, leaving a large loop. Hold loop open with the needle. Reach through loop with thumb and one finger of left hand and grasp needle thread. Pull it through to form second loop. Draw released loop down to fabric. Thread so a second loop is formed. Continue chaining for length required passing needle through last loop to lock the chain. Then pass needle through fabric and fasten se­curely on wrong side.

French Tacks

Are used to join two surfaces where ease and distance are desired, such as when attaching belt to garment, joining buttons to form cuff links, anchoring shoulder pads at neckline, and holding linings in coats or draperies.

Take a small stitch in garment; then in belt (or any two surfaces). Repeat for 4 or 6 strands of thread; then blanket-stitch over these strands. Keep stitches firm.

Thread Eyelets    Follow same instruction as   for belt carrier or French tack.

Sewing on Buttons

Position button over marking in line with but­tonhole. Bring needle through fabric from the wrong side, then up through one hole of button and down through second hole. Repeat. Buttons with four holes may be sewed in various ways for effect.

There should be space between button and garment for buttonhole to fit smoothly. Some buttons are made with shanks which raise the button from the surface of the fabric.

To form a thread shank place pin across button between holes. When sufficient stitches are formed to secure button remove pin, then pull button away from fabric. Wind some remaining thread around thread between button and fabric. Bring needle to wrong side and fasten thread.

Half the length of the cord is extended beyond   left   end   of   bias   strip.

Snap Fasteners

Mark position for fasteners. First, position and sew ball part of fastener to underside of overlap with over and under stitch. Then chalk the ball and press it against the under lap to mark posi­tion for the socket. Some fabrics will mark by just pressing ball to under lap.

Holders — Lingerie Straps

Use narrow ribbon or seam binding about 1½”long, folded through center and stitched. Sew ball to shoulder seam toward neckline, and socket to end of ribbon or tape. Hand sew end of ribbon to shoulder seam.

Button Loops

Button loops are easy to apply once the tubular cording has been prepared. The tubular cording should be firm, round and as slender as possible. A No. 9 cable cord is suggested as a filler.

To cover a fine filler cord cut a strip of fabric on the true bias 1" wide plus three times the thickness of the cord. With ma­chine stitching attach bias strip at pointed end to center of filler cord with wrong side of bias against cord. Picking up loose end, flip bias strip over to other half of filler cord. Wrong side will now be away from cord. Fold strip in half lengthwise. The cord and turned point of bias are now on the inside of the folded strip, while the remaining half of the cord extends out from the folded under point.

Using an adjustable cording foot and a short stitch, form a funnel shape near the turned point and catch by stitching from the two seam edges of the bias strip toward the cord. Taper this "funnel" for about 1"; then crowd the stitching against the cord and, at the same time, stretch the bias to its fullest length. One-half the filler cord is now inside the bias covering and one-half extends from the funneled end. Trim seam allowances to ⅛".
Now work the bias back over itself and the uncovered cord while pulling the end of the encased cord. The tubular cording turns into a smooth tightly covered cord. Stitches will not break if a short stitch has been used and if the bias has been properly stretched as described.

Tubular cording is used, in the same way that braid might be used, to make: spaghetti trimming, bows, knots, frogs, loop-type edging, fagoting and button loops. A large filler cord is often covered with velvet for dress belts and ties.

To form loops draw a line on a sheet of paper to represent the stitching line of the opening. Place center of button to be used exactly on this line. Now, place a trial piece of tubular cording around left side of but ton keeping cording seam on inside of loop. Make a mark with a pencil to indicate length and depth of loop. With these di­mensions as a guide, draw a line parallel to stitching line for the depth of the loop. Draw a second parallel line ¼" on other side of stitching line to allow for seams in loops. Draw horizontal lines to indicate loop widths.

Stitch cord to point of bias strip
Attach, with machine stitching, center length of cord to wrong side of pointed end of strip. The cord should be twice the length of bias strip.

Turn pointed end and cord to right side of bias. Then fold bias in half lengthwise.

Stitch using the cording foot and a short stitch length. Form a funnel shape at turned point by tapering for about one inch. Crowd stitching against cord while stretching bias to its fullest length. Trim seam allowance to ⅛".
The tubular cording turns into a smooth tightly covered cord.

Work bias back over extended cord while pulling the end of encased cord.

Draw a line on a sheet of paper representing the stitching line of the opening. Place center of button exactly on this line. Place a trial piece of cording around left side of button keeping cording on seam inside of loop. Mark with pencil to indicate length and depth of loop required.

With these markings as a guide, draw parallel line for depth of other loop and cross lines for their width.

The loops for the buttons are shaped in­side these markings. Stitch each one to the paper as it is formed keeping seam of cording on inside of loop. Clip through the seam line of the cording, but not far enough to sever the cord when shaping the next loop.

The outside edges of the loops must touch. A darning needle will help hold loop firmly against sewing machine needle when stitching. Pierce end of loop with a darning needle and hold loop firmly against the sewing machine needle. Lower foot and stitch into cord. Remove the darning needle and pierce the end of next loop. Repeat until all loops are attached to the strip of paper. Pin the strip of paper, with loops attached, to right side of opening in garment. Match seam lines turning loops away from the opening. Baste and stitch just outside the seam line. Tear off paper and then attach the facing by stitching along the seam line from the wrong side of gar­ment. When facing is turned, loops will extend beyond the opening edge.

The loops are shaped inside these markings. Stitch each loop to paper as formed, keeping seam line in cording on the inside of loop. Clip through the stitching of cording. Darning needle will help to hold loop firmly against machine needle.

Strip of paper, with loops attached, stitched to right side of opening.

Ball or half-ball buttons are appropriate for this type of closing.

Attach the facing. Stitching on seam line from wrong side of the garment.
Turn facing to wrong side so loops will ex­tend beyond opening. Ball or half-ball buttons are generally used with this type of closing.

Center Basting
Neckline
Bust line
Waistline

Machine Made Buttonholes

Usually the pattern indicates. the position of the buttonholes and the size of buttons for a par­ticular design.

If an adjustment is made in the length of a bodice with a front or back closing, some change will be necessary in the placement of buttonholes.

First, position for buttonhole at the fullest part of the bustline; then consider the buttonhole posi­tions at the neckline and the waistline. In between these points evenly space the required number of buttonholes,

Buttonholes are positioned in relation to center front or center back as indicated by the center line basting. The buttonholes should extend ⅛" to left of center basting.

Buttons are sewn on the center line basting on left side of women's garments.

The interfacing should be lightweight and usu­ally the same color as the garment.

Always make a test buttonhole using a scrap of the same fabric, together with interfacing and facing, to be sure buttonhole attachment adjust­ments are correct. For the operation and care of your buttonhole attachment check the instruc­tion book.

Press and cut buttonholes through center using sharp, pointed scissors.
The buttons are sewn on the center line basting opposite the buttonholes.

Always make a test buttonhole using a scrap of the same fabric together with interfacing.

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