PRESSING

In addition to the pressing equipment sug­gested in Step Two, you may find the seam board helpful when pressing seams in collars, in hard to get at corners, or when press­ing any seam that should be pressed open and very smooth before turning to the inside.

A tailor's cushion is convenient for shaping the fabric when making dressmaker suits or coats, One may be purchased, but it is easy to make. It should be made of a heavy closely woven fabric such as drill cloth. Wash and press the fabric. Then cut two oval pieces which are wider at one end than the other. Make them about 14" long and 10" wide at the widest part. Stitch the two pieces together taking a ½" seam. Leave an open­ing at the narrow end. Turn seam to the inside and fill with clean, dry sand or sawdust. Turn edges of opening to inside and whip closed by hand.

When pressing fabrics, first consider their fiber content, and then their texture. Fiber content de­termines the pressing temperature, whereas tex­ture determines how the fabric is to be handled.

When cutting the fabric it is a good idea to save any fairly large scraps to test pressing and ma­chine stitching. These scraps are also useful for mending, altering, or re-styling a garment, should the need occur.

Always test for correct pressing temperature on a scrap of the fabric before pressing sections of the garment. The fabric-dial on the iron is your guide for heat control. The lowest indicator is for o fabrics requiring low temperature: nylon, rayon, acetates, etc. Use a press cloth over synthetic fabrics and blends. Press dry.

Silk requires slightly more heat than synthetics. It should be pressed on the wrong side. If a steam iron is used, spread a piece of cheese cloth over the fabric for protection. If using a dry iron, spread the dampened cloth over cheesecloth. Too much heat will discolor pastels and white silk so be especially careful with them.

Sheer cottons and linens require a slightly higher temperature than silk. Either may be steam pressed without the protection of a dry cloth.

The fabric-dial set at "wool press" gives a hot steam that is moist enough for a good finish when pressing wool and worsteds. Press on the wrong side, but do not press dry. Then, while still moist, brush right side of fabric lightly. If it is necessary to press on the right side, put a wool faced press cloth, or a piece of the same wool fabric, over area to be pressed. Allow steam to thoroughly penetrate layers of fabric. This helps to prevent shine on smooth fabrics, and the matting of nap fabrics. Heavy cotton and linen require the most heat. An iron may be used directly on these fab­rics unless they are dark colored. Use a press cloth to prevent shine on thick seams and on dark colors. Press fabric dry.

When steaming velvet or velveteen set dial for "wool". Use steam only. Do not bring iron in contact with the fabric. Drape a damp Turkish towel over the iron. While holding wrong side of velvet close to towel draw it back and forth thus allowing steam to penetrate. Or, place fabric, right side down, over velvet press board or wool press pad. Hold iron close to fabric brushing it lightly and distributing steam evenly. Press seams open with finger tips and steam by holding iron slightly above the seam.

There is no substitute for good press­ing for the custom-made look in dress­making and tailoring. To achieve this result the skillful presser has developed the light touch, that is, the knack of lift­ing and placing her iron on the fabric lightly. She has also learned to lift the fabric into position with both hands. Also she smoothes the fabric with the palms of her hands, keeping the grains of the fabric at right angles. She uses her finger tips to open seams. She presses with the grain of the fabric.
She knows how important pressing is to a well fitted garment; how it is used to smooth and mold the fabric. How, not only to stitch darts, but also how to press them so they serve their purpose, and disappear into the contours of the garment.

She knows that pleats must lies smoothly. that necklines must conform to contour, that collar and cuff edges should be sharp and thin, and that hems should not reveal their width.

DARTS

Press dart in direction pattern indicates. Use strip of paper under dart to prevent pressing a ridge through to right side of fabric.

Darts at underarm, waistline and skirt are often slashed before pressing in direction pattern in­dicates. The edges of slash are uneven; the widest edge should be next to the garment.

Fitting darts and concave seams which are to be pressed open are clipped at the waistline to within ¼" of seam line. Press the end of the dart to a triangle.

Fitting darts that taper to a point above and be­low the waistline are clipped to within ¼" of stitching. Press dart as stitched. Then place strip of paper under dart and press dart toward center front or center back.

TUCKS

Baste the inside and the top folds of pleats with silk thread. Press the inside fold and, when dry, press the top fold from underside.

Tucks that control fullness are pressed to end of stitch­ing. Then press tucks toward center back or center front

Direct point of iron toward stitching by moving iron forward and lifting it back­ward, always with the grain of the fabric. Adjust gathers and fabric frequently.

BUTTONHOLES

1. Press as stitched. Cut opening and turn patch to underside. 2. Press seam edges and patch away from opening. Opening should be even with line of stitching. 3. Turn back one end of patch and press. Do the same for the opposite side.

4. Press finished buttonholes, bound, corded and strip, with right side on wool press pad. Then press lightly on the right side. Use cheesecloth to pro­tect the fabric.

POCKETS

Follow the same procedure for pressing a stand pocket as   given for a bound buttonhole.

1.   Press   finished  patch  pocket from   underside   on   press   pad.
2. Press inside pockets on the wrong side on the press pad. Place paper between the garment and the pouch and between the welt or stand of pocket.

All seams should be pressed as stitched on a flat surface first. Then press seam open. Press straight seams on a flat surface and curved seams over a press mitt, seam board, or tailor's cushion.

LAPELS, COLLARS, CUFFS

Press  scam  as  stitched.  Then press seam open on press mitt or seamboard.

SLEEVES

For final pressing, protect right side of fabric with press cloth or piece of the same fabric. Press on tailor's cushion.

See  “Setting in Sleeves” for shrinking fullness and pressing.  When necessary to shrink a little of the fullness in the cap of the sleeve, place press mitt over end of sleeve board and cap of sleeve over press mitt.  Direct point of iron toward control stitching with iron lightly touching fabric.  Allow steam to penetrate fabric.

CLOSURES,  EDGE FINISHES

Press raised areas of garment on press pad. When pressing on the right side use press cloth to pro­tect fabric. Touch cloth lightly with iron so steam will penetrate. Brush fabric with finger tips or scrap of the same fabric.

HEMS IN FLARED SKIRTS

Prepare hem as illustrated on page 88. Cut a strip of paper the shape of the hem and slip under turned edge. Press from turn of hem. Shrink as much fullness as possible. Press finished hem on press pad.

HEM OVER PLEATS

Baste folds in pleats across the hem with silk thread. Press inside fold; then press top fold from underside.

INTERFACED HEM

After hem is marked put in a line of hand basting along markings, Then attach inter­facing and press from wrong side on press pad. Press finished hem on press pad.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here...