UNDERLINING FABRICS

An underlining of firm, lightweight, pre-shrunk fabric is used to back a section of a garment, or the complete garment, depending on design and fabric. Most fabrics, such as soft silks, matt jersey, wool jersey, woolens, lace, fine cottons, linen and knit fabrics, should be underlined for good fit and shape retention.

This is very important in garments where the styling depends on close fitting.

Voile, batiste, organza, soft lightweight taffeta, and China silk are suitable fabrics for underlin­ing. There are also many new fabrics created especially for underlinings. Some are appropriate for a crisp, bouffant effect while others are more suitable for the smoothly fitted look.

For dresses made of fine laces use tulle, net, marquisette, or organza for underlining to retain the sheerness and pattern of the lace. Baste the underlining to the lace before stitching darts, or tucks, or putting in gathers. Keeping the under­lining and lace together, pin and baste darts or tucks. After stitching, underlining of dart may be cut away close to line of stitching.

For underlining over-all or eyelet embroidery, use a very sheer fabric, such as voile, batiste or organza.

For underlining very sheer wools, particularly those used for a sheath type dress or a dress with a fitted bodice, organza, light Siri, or Formite would be a good choice.

Baste and stitch darts, tucks, etc. in garment and underlining.

Cutting

Underlining is cut from the same pattern as the garment. All markings, notches and tailor's tacks are made in the underlining. Darts are stitched in underlining before joining to match­ing sections. Baste underlining to its matching section before stitching. Lace and very sheer fab­rics are exceptions. In each case the underlining and outer fabric are treated as one.

Jackets

When making a jacket of wool jersey, sheer wool, or loosely woven or knit fabrics, underline the jacket with a soft fabric such as batiste, China silk, or fine muslin. Make darts in under linings. Then pin and baste to matching sections of jacket before joining at shoulder and underarm seams.

Skirts

Slim skirts, made of lightweight wool, crepe, jersey, linen, or of soft, spongy or loosely woven fabrics, are usually underlined with a firmly woven fabric. Underlining supports fabric and helps retain shape and good fit of skirt.
Underlining may be half or full length. The half length underlining should extend well below fullest part of hip and should measure 15" to 18" in length. This fabric should be pre-shrunk and pressed before cutting.

Cut underlining the same as the skirt. Put in all markings indicating darts, tucks, or pleats. Stitch and press as in the skirt. Place underlining on skirt back and front sections, matching center front and back lines, and seam edges at the waist­line. Smooth underlining from center toward side seams. Pin and baste at side seams.

Next, stitch skirt and underlining sections to­gether at the waistline. Pink lower edge of under­lining or turn under and stitch. Pin side seams together. Baste and stitch.

A full length underlining may extend to top of hem, hang free between seams, or extend to turn of hem. If extended to turn of hem, be sure there is some ease in the length of the under lining at front and back. Smooth underlining from waist to hemline. Pin scant ⅛" tuck in un­derlining just above hem to supply the ease. Re­move pins when hem is turned and hand stitched.

Baste underlining to garment sections; then pin and haste sections together.

Underlining upper half of skirt.

Slim skirts with front gathers or pleats, or skirts with side draping should be underlined at front and back. Use plain skirt pattern with darts at waistline for underlining. The underlining should extend below the hipline. Fit underlining as you would fit a plain skirt before joining it to skirt at waistline and side seams.

Catch-stitched Seam. This is a very good finish for a plain seam in underlined skirts, jackets and coats when made of heavy fabrics, such as linen, wool, tweed, velveteen, textured silks, corduroy and fleeces. Seams must be carefully pressed be­fore finishing. Use a very fine needle and silk thread for wool and silk fabrics. Work from left to right. Catch a few threads near seam edge; then catch 1 or 2 threads in fabric outside seam edge. Be sure needle thread does not show on right side of fabric, Alternate in this way for the length of the seam. Do not draw thread taut. There should be a slight ease between each stitch. Seams fin­ished this way should remain smooth after clean­ing and pressing.

Catch-stitch edges of open seams to garment.

Skirts with Fullness Bell Shaped Skirt

This type of skirt is usually made of a firm, opaque fabric. For the underlining either nylon, net, or taffeta would be a good choice with most skirt fabrics. Use the same pattern for under­lining as you used for the skirt. Baste underlining to skirt sec­tions. Treat the two fabrics as one when putting in pleats, darts, or gathers at waistline. Baste skirt and underlining side seam edges together before stitching.

Gored Skirts (Very Full)

Under linings for gored skirts which fan out from a fitted waistline should be similar to the garment in weight and fiber. For satin, brocade, taffeta, silk organdy, fine linen, or synthetic skirts use taffeta, net, organza, light Siri, or Formite. For quality cotton skirts use permanent finish organdy, heavy cotton net, or marquisette.

Cut underlining from same pattern as skirt. Baste underlining to matching sections. Then, treating the two fabrics as one, pin and baste sections of skirt together. Stitch, and press as stitched. Press seams open. See page 118 for fin­ishing seams.

Finish lower edge of underlining with a very narrow hem. When net is used for underlining either trim edge evenly, or bind edge with a narrow binding.

Gathered Skirts (Very Full)

Underline lightweight, transparent, or sheer crisp fabrics with net or organza in matching color. Stitch skirt and underlining seams together; then stitch around waistline before gathering. For hemming sheers, see page 122.

For the bouffant effect, two or three under­skirts made of net are usually required. These skirts are gathered separately. Slip one over the other; then pin and baste together at the waist­line.

The underskirts may be finished at waistline with narrow belt and worn as a petticoat. Or, treat all skirts as one: baste underskirts to skirt at the waistline; then join skirt to bodice.

Flared Skirts

Skirts of velveteen, corduroy, or heavy cotton may be underlined with non-woven fabric or a crisp cotton. Underline lace, taffeta, brocade, silk jacquard, linen, etc. with net, organza, or soft taffeta.

Flared skirts should be worn with full petti­coats made of nylon net over soft taffeta.

Gathered shirt.

In either type of skirt, if a little more support is required for buoyancy over the hipline, you may find one of the following suggestions helpful.

Hip pad for bouffant skirt.
CUT 4 — 2  FOR  EACH  PAD

Additional Support

Hip Pads. Cut pattern as illustrated. Make pads of soft taffeta or cotton. Stitch darts and press. Stitch outside curved edges together taking ¼" seams. Gather top edges slightly for shaping. Fill pad with kapok for desired thickness and baste edges together. Fads may be joined to waistline seam or to a band. Space pads an even distance to each side from center front. Band should fit snugly, but not tightly, and fasten in back.

Cupped Crinoline. It is shaped to support very full skirts over the hipline. It may be joined be­tween layers of skirt or petticoats. Cut pattern as illustrated. Cut two pieces of crinoline. Fold each through the center bringing curved edges together. Turn edges to inside at each end. Make an even number of darts across the top, pressing
Pattern for cupped crinoline support. Cut two.

each dart to a point. Pin and baste. Bind edge with bias tape. Attach to band of grosgrain rib-bon, or to underlining fabric. Fasten band in back.

Crinoline or Net Ruffle

If the skirt is made of a soft fabric and is very full, a wide full ruffle (about 11"), made of crino­line or net, will support and add buoyancy to the skirt Ruffle is smooth across front and opens in back. Use the ruffler attachment for gathering net. Adjust attachment for pleating when using crinoline. Finish edges of crinoline with bias binding. Then finish top edge with a narrow, closely fitted band.

Crinoline, shaped with darts to support full skirts. Pleated crinoline skirt, below hip length.

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