TAILORING

Tailoring is a method of garment con­struction. In its purest meaning it im­plies the use of sewing techniques which result in a garment impeccably shaped, inter­faced,  stayed,  and lined to hold its  contours through many wearings and cleanings. Coats and suits are the most familiar examples of garments employing tailoring methods.

The term "tailored" is used extensively to de­scribe characteristics of styling easily recognized by pure simple lines. Interest is achieved by seam detailing, pocket treatment, buttons, and button­holes. The shirtwaist dress is a classic example of tailoring, but a skirt, blouse, jacket, robe, hat, shoes, bag, or any piece of apparel or accessory may be of tailored design.

Tailoring employs many basic principles com­mon to good dressmaking: pattern adjustment, preparation of fabric by straightening, careful lay­out of pattern and cutting on fabric grain, trans­ferring all pattern markings for darts, assembly of sections and details, and accurate basting and stitching. In addition, tailoring requires greater care in fitting and different techniques in shaping. Pressing to mold fabric and the methods of applying interfacing, tape and lining are the shap­ing techniques which help set tailoring apart from other sewing.

Fabrics appropriate for tailoring are firmly woven and may be of cotton, linen, silk, synthetic, or blends of natural fibers and synthetics. They may be any one of a variety of weaves and weights, but must be dense enough to be interfaced with­out the interfacing, or the stitching securing it, showing through.

All fabrics used in making a tailored garment should be pre-shrunk. The stability of the garment fabric, interfacing, linen tape, seam tape, inter­lining, underlining, and lining are all of equal importance.

Shrinkage of Fabrics

Most high quality fabrics are pre-shrunk and ready for cutting. These are usually labeled ac­cordingly on the selvage, on tags, or on the board over which the fabric is rolled. Precautions against shrinkage must be taken whenever there is doubt about this.

Prepare fabric for shrinking by snipping sel­vages to prevent them from pulling. Straighten the crosswise ends by pulling a thread and cutting along pulled thread. Fold lengthwise, right sides together, keeping ends even.

Washable fabrics, such as cotton or linen, may be immersed in hot water (other washable fab­rics in warm water) until moisture has pene­trated thoroughly. Without squeezing or wring­ing hang over a rod keeping lengthwise and cross­wise grains straight. When still damp, smooth fabric and press on wrong side moving the iron along the lengthwise grain keeping selvages and crosswise ends even. Interfacing fabrics (except for.non-woven types) are shrunk in this way.

Wool fabric may be economically and satis­factorily shrunk by steam pressing by your tailor or dry cleaner. Woolens may also be shrunk at home. After properly straightening, clipping sel­vages, and folding, lay fabric over a damp sheet.

Fold the sheet and fabric together, cover with dry cloth, and allow to stand until moisture has penetrated fabric. Smooth fabric and true ends and selvages before pressing on the wrong side. Protect wool by covering: with a lightweight pressing cloth or cheesecloth, or press with a steam iron.

Silk fabric may be sent to your tailor or dry
cleaner for shrinking. Soft taffeta, lining crepe, China silk and similar silk lining fabrics are ef­fectively shrunk at home by steam pressing.
DO's in Tailoring
Do learn to work with a light touch.
Do cut all pieces of a pile fabric, a nap fabric, or any fabric of a one-way design in the same direction.
Do handle your fabric as little as possible. Do use easy basting stitches. Do press lightly—step by step. Do stitch only where necessary.

Do hang garment in the assembly stage, carefully supporting any part of it that might stretch. Or, fold loosely and place in a large box or drawer.
Do clip threads every few stitches when removing bastings or machine stitches.
Do use tweezers and lift threads out care­fully.
Do keep in mind the light touch, ease and a smooth, trim line.

Pressing

Pressing is an important part of the technique of building shape into a garment. It is the means for achieving the smooth, sleek lines, so essential to a custom-made look.

Press; do not iron. Pressing involves less slid­ing motion of the iron. The iron is placed gently while it forces steam into the garment. Then it is lifted and moved to the next area.

Make it a practice to press every seam as it is stitched, then press it open and finally press in the position it will remain in the garment. (See Press­ing on page 103.)

Use of a Stay

A stay is a firm, crisp lightweight fabric, such as lawn, organdy, or taffeta, used underneath the area of fabric to be slashed to prevent fraying and stretching. Buttonholes and pockets are ex­amples.

A stay of matching color is used to reinforce the point of a slash. This occurs when setting in gus­sets, or where the collar is a continuation of the jacket front, and a slash is necessary at shoulder line. A stay of muslin is generally used across the shoulders of jackets and coats to support the fab­ric and help retain the good fit of the garment.

Interfacing

The purpose of interfacing is to add body and crispness, to reinforce, to retain shape, and to prevent softening or wrinkling in wear. In inter­facing, a piece of special fabric is placed between a garment section and its facing, such as in cuffs, collars, lapels, pocket flaps, front closures, etc.

There are many types of interfacing fabrics available in various weights and textures.

For wool suits and coats use a lightweight hair canvas containing wool or goat hair. This is a very good choice for the center front. Tailor's can­vas (a loosely woven linen) is most satisfactory for interfacing collars. Firm, unbleached muslin is another good choice for wool fabrics and for suits and coats of bengaline, faille, or shantung.

Lightweight interfacings, such as lawn, soft taffeta, Formite, lightweight muslin, or light Siri, may be used with cottons, wool jersey, linen, flat and textured silks. Always shrink any type of interfacing before cutting.

The pattern usually indicates how interfacings are cut. The facing and interfacing for a roll collar are cut on the true bias.

Underlining

Suit jackets, skirts and coats made of wool jer­sey, sheer wool, and loosely woven or knit fabrics should be underlined. See Underlinings beginning on page 127.

Linings

The lining fabric should be of good quality since it receives hard wear. This fabric should also be in keeping with the suit or coat fabric. Silk or rayon crepes, satin back crepe, satin or taffeta in matching or contrasting colors (depend­ing on the effect desired) are usually a good choice. Taffeta is most effective for boxy jackets and full coats, particularly if the coat is made of a textured silk or other medium weight fabric. For a fitted jacket a soft textured fabric is more desirable. Be sure lining fabric is pre-shrunk before cutting.

Machine Stitching

Use silk thread for stitching wool or silk fabrics, cotton or mercerized for cotton or linen, and Dacron thread for Dacron fabric. If silk thread is not available use mercerized cotton or Dacron for stitching wool.

Stitch very lightweight fabrics with a size 11 needle when using silk or Dacron. The stitch length should be 14-16 stitches per inch. For me­dium weight fabrics use a size 14 needle with mercerized thread and a size  11 with silk or Dacron thread.

The stitch length should be 12-15 per inch. Heavy wool fabrics stitched with silk or Mercer­ized thread require a size 14 needle and a 10-12 stitch length.

Test stitching on two lengthwise pieces of your fabric and make any adjustments necessary. Silk and Dacron threads require lighter tension ad­justments than mercerized thread. Lightweight fabrics require a lighter pressure than heavier fabrics. Your fabric should never pull or pucker and should move easily under the presser foot.

Basting

Baste with either silk, a single strand of darning cotton or a very fine cotton, size 100 or finer. Use the long and short basting or the uneven bast­ing stitch for lightweight fabrics. But when using textured fabrics, woolens, jersey, nap and pile fabrics, such as velvet and broadcloth, and satins that slip easily, use the diagonal basting stitch. This stitch is also used around collars, lapels, cuffs, pockets, or any construction step where facings and interfacings are used.

SEAMS FOR STYLING AND ACCENT

Seam, machine basted. One thread cut every fourth   or   fifth  stitch.
Underlay basted to underside of seam.
Remove un-cut basting thread

Slotted Seam

The slotted seam adds quality and smartness to simple dresses and suits that rely on the em­phasis of good style lines for interest. Fashion magazines prove the point that the expensive dress often is simple in line, impeccable in fit, made of the finest fabric and generally employs a detail, such as the slotted seam for accent. Sel­dom is this detail used on inexpensive garments. The construction is simple.

The seam is stitched into a plain seam with machine basting. Pressing is carefully done, first as the seam is stitched; then the seam is pressed open sharply. All thread ends except one are cut away close to the fabric. The opposite thread is then clipped every four or five stitches apart along the length of the seam. An underlay of the same, or contrasting fabric is carefully positioned under the seam and is basted securely on each side of the seam. Then the stitching is done. The basting is quickly removed by pulling the single thread end that was left uncut.

Curved slotted seam. Edges faced and under­lay  basted  to  underside  before  stitching.
Slotted seam.

The edges of a curved slotted seam should be faced with shaped facings. Cut facings, one for the outside curve and one for the inside, l ¾" wide, and on the same grain of the fabric as the seam. Pin and baste facings to garment. Stitch and press. Trim and blend seam edges. Next, notch the outside curved edge and slash the in­side curve. (See page 55.) Press seams open; then turn facings to the wrong side and baste. Cut an underlay the shape of the seam and 2½" wide. Pin seams over underlay so seam edges meet at the center. Baste seam edges together with diag­onal stitches. Now, baste underlay to garment and stitch. Remove basting and press.

Underside of curved slotted seam.

Spaced Slotted Seam Detail

The positions for slots are marked along the seam. The seam is stitched as a plain seam be­tween the markings using regular stitch length. Back stitch three or four stitches at each end. Then machine baste between markings for slots. Press seam as stitched; then press seam open. Clip one thread every four or five stitches along the length of the slot. Cut a strip of the fabric for the underlay. Place strip under slot and baste securely. Stitch on each side of the seam line and at each end. Remove machine and hand bast­ing; then press.

If width of slot desired is as much or more than the usual seam allowance, insert a strip of light­weight fabric under seam edges. Catch-stitch seam edges to strip. Then pin underlay to under­side and baste.

Underlay basted to underside; then stitched.

Spaced Slot seam.Extended seam edge.

Top-stitched Opened Seams

Before cutting the garment, or the sec­tions where this seam finish occurs, de­termine width of stitching, ⅜", 1/2", ⅝", or more, from seam line. Then add ⅛" or more to width of seam allowance when cutting.

Join each seam at seam line markings as a plain seam. Press as stitched; then press open.

If fabric is soft or lightweight and garment is not underlined, slip a strip of the same fabric, or soft interfacing, between seam edge and garment. The strip should be cut on the same grain as the seam, or on a true bias. Do not stretch. Baste the three layers of fabric together before stitching. Whenever stitching oc­curs on both sides of the seam, stitch all rows in the same direction.

Multiple rows of stitching are often used to accent seam lines. The same pro­cedure as indicated above is followed.

Strip of reinforcing fabric basted between seam edge and garment.

Underside of stitched open seam.

Multiple rows of stitch­ing   to   accent   seams.

Welt seam basted for final stitching

Trim under edge of seam, to stitching line.

Single Stitched Welt Seam

The seam is stitched first as a plain seam. Press as stitched; then press seam open. Next press two edges to one side for final stitching. Two rows of hand basting through the garment and seam edges are helpful in holding the three layers of fabric securely for even feeding when machine stitching. Measure width of welt and stitch from the right side. Press. Trim the inside edge of the seam close to the line of stitching.

MAKINGS A SUIT CONSTRUCTION

Darts

Fitting darts that extend above and below the waistline should be stitched upward and down­ward from the fullest part of the dart. Overlap stitching at the waistline. Clip dart at the fullest part to allow for shaping when pressed.

For heavy fabrics, such as linens, woolens, etc., slash dart along fold and press open. Finish edges by overcastting or pinking.

Underarm darts are pressed toward waistline. To relieve bulkiness when using heavy fabrics, slash dart and blend edges making the upper edge narrower.

Tailor's Knot

At the end of the darts, pleats, and tucks, tie the two threads together by forming a loop and draw­ing the two ends through. Hold loop close to fabric with thumb of left hand, pull ends of thread to set the knot at end of stitching. Or stick a pin at the end of the dart and draw knot down over pin while holding loop firmly with the thumb.

Stitching fitting darts.
Dart slashed and pressed open. Underarm dart is blended.
Tying knot with ends drawn through loop.

Buttonholes and Pockets

Make pockets and bound, corded or strip but­tonholes in coats, suits and jackets before assem­bling garment. See page 34 for detailed instruc­tion for buttonholes and page 158 for pockets.

Back stay with dart slashed, overlapped and stitched.

Back Stay

This is usually made of muslin or similar soft, firm, lightweight, woven fabric. Darts at shoulder line are slashed and overlapped. Stitch through center using either straight or zigzag stitching. Pin stay to back, matching center line basting and notches. Baste from shoulder to lower edge of stay on either side of center. Then baste around the armhole, shoulder line and neckline.

Collar

Stitch under-collar sections together at center back and press seam open, Mark seam allowance on interfacing and overlap edges matching marked line. Catch-stitch through center of lapped edges, or stitch using the zigzag attachment or zigzag sewing machine. Trim away the edges near the stitching. Place the interfacing to wrong side of under-collar, matching the center seam and the other markings. Pin, working from center seam to ends of collar.

Pin interfacing to under-collar. Place padding stitches.
Trim of seam allowance of interfacing.

Lightweight interfacing stitched in the seam and seams blended.

Determine roll-line. Try collar around neck. If neck is short, the roll-line should be lower than usual. Mark and baste roll-line using diagonal stitches and picking up a thread of under-collar. Start padding stitch at the roll-line holding fabric

Trim point of interfacing at corners.

over first finger of left hand so that easing can be done as you work toward neckline seam. Now press and shape collar to neckline. After shaping apply padding stitches from fold line to seam line of collar. These stitches are necessary to hold interfacing to under-collar and are spaced farther apart.

When using hair canvas or tailor's canvas for interfacing, trim away the seam allowance before joining the section to another one. If ends of col­lar are square or pointed, clip a small triangle off interfacing at points or corners. This makes for a smoother point when the two sections are stitched together and turned.

Lightweight, woven interfacings are used for lightweight fabrics and are stitched in the seam. Then interfacing is trimmed close to the line of stitching. Instead of using padding stitches from roll-line of collar to neckline, put in several rows of machine stitching using a longer than average stitch length. This adds crispness and body to the collar.

Interfacing may be machine stitched to under-collar below roll-line.

Mark and baste roll-line on right side.

Baste front and interfacing together over rounded surface.

Front Interfacing

When using hair canvas or a heavy woven fab­ric for interfacing, use a firm lightweight fabric, such as organdy or lawn, as a stay for button­holes. Make buttonholes before attaching inter­facing. After attaching interfacing mark position for buttonholes on interfacing, and cut an open­ing about ⅛" longer and wider than buttonhole. Slip opening under buttonhole seam edges and catch-stitch edges to interfacing.

Pin interfacing to garment at shoulder line and front edge. Place front, right side up, over the rounded surface of a tailor's cushion, or a press mitt held in the left hand. Pin fabric to inter facing, then baste from shoulder downward tak­ing long diagonal stitches.

Cut opening for buttonhole in interfacing

Determine roll-line for lapels from neckline to top button. Place a ruler on right side between these points and draw a line with chalk. Baste on chalk line. Fasten interfacing to lapels with padding stitches between roll-line and seam line. Roll fabric over first finger as you stitch. Then put in padding stitches from roll-line to armhole working from the neck and shoulder line down­ward. Continue two or four rows of stitches to lower edge of interfacing.

Shoulder line Joining

Stitch shoulder seams of garment fabric only; then press. Lap edges of interfacing and back stay, and catch-stitch together taking stitches through edges of shoulder seam. Or, trim seam allow­ance from front interfacing at shoulder line. Pin shoulder seam and seam edge of back stay to­gether and stitch. Press. Trim seam edge of back stay along stitching line. Press seam open. Catch-stitch the seam edges to the front interfacing and the back stay.
Padding stitches hold interfacing to fabric.

Shoulder line with stay and interfacing overlapped and catch-stitched.
Shoulder line seam opened and edges catch-stitched to interfacing and stay.

Joining front facing and collar to garment.

Assembling Collar and Facing

Before joining under-collar to neckline, trim seam allowances from heavy interfacing. Baste, stitch and press seam open. Join collar to front facing and press seam open.

Trim seam allowance plus additional 1/16" from lapel interfacing. Pin front facing and col­lar to garment and under-collar, right sides to­gether, matching markings and seam lines. Be sure there is ease in the facing across the points of the lapel and in the upper collar. Baste care­fully. Stitch. Then press as stitched.

For taping a collar and lapel edges, a ¼" linen tape or straight seam tape may be used. If seam tape is used, shrink, fold through the center, and press thoroughly.

Place tape to overlapping edge of interfacing bringing outside edge of tape a scant 1/16" from stitching and pin securely. Slip-stitch tape, keep­ing edge slightly away from seam line and work­ing from bottom upward. Miter tape at points of lapel. Slip-stitch second side of tape to interfac­ing. Press applied tape. Then press seams open.

Blend these seams trimming facing seam to scant ¼" and front seam to ⅜" as far up as the roll-line of the lapel. Then reverse the seam blending, trimming facing to ⅜" and front to ¼". Trim under-collar seam edge to ¼" and  upper collar to ⅜". Always clip the seam edges of an inside curve and notch the seam edges of an out­side curve.

Stay back neckline with tape.

Stay the back neckline seam with tape or bind­ing. Trim, clip, and press neckline seam open. Pin tape over seam, keeping it taut, and catch-stitch. The front neckline seam joining the collar and the lapel should be trimmed, opened, and each seam edge catch-stitched to the interfacing.

Turn facing and collar, allowing seam to roll very slightly to underside on lapel and collar edges and to roll to the inside below the roll-line on the front. Pin and baste with diagonal bast­ing stitch. (Seepage 135) Smooth front facing. Fold lapel on roll-line, and pin facing edge to jacket. Then catch-stitch edge of facing to inter­facing and to jacket below interfacing, being care­ful to catch only a single thread of the garment fabric. Secure back neckline seam of upper col­lar to neckline seam with permanent, even bast­ing stitch. Do this while holding collar in the same position it will be in when being worn.

Taping lapel and collar edges.
Catch-stitch facing to front.

Stitch around cap of sleeve to control ease. Muslin is cut on bias to interface hem.
Sew lining to underarm seam.

Sleeves

Stitch sleeve seams and press. Press seams open. Two rows of machine stitching are used to control ease in the cap of the sleeve. Ease top tension slightly and make a row of stitching 1/16" within seam allowance from notch to notch. Place second row ⅛" from first row.

If shoulder pads are used, try on jacket and mark position for pads. Remove pads. Pin sleeve to armhole, matching top and underarm seams and notches. Draw bobbin thread to ease fullness between notches, and pin. Baste sleeve to arm-hole; remove pins. Try on jacket again with shoulder pads to check fit of sleeve, correct shoulder length, hang of sleeve, and sleeve length. Remove sleeves and shrink fullness around cap,

Mark hemline of sleeve and baste along mark­ings. Interface with a bias strip of muslin that is ½" wider than the hem. Pin to underside bring­ing edge to basting. Hold bias firmly, but do not stretch. To fasten interfacing to sleeve use either catch-stitch or diagonal basting stitch, picking up-one thread of the fabric. Lap ends of bias on straight grain and catch-stitch together. Blend seams that extend into hem to ½" width.

Assemble Lining. Stitch and press darts at shoulder and baste soft pleat in center back.

Stitch lining sections together; then stitch sleeve lining. Press seams open. Put in a row of stitching between notches around cap of sleeve lining. Turn sleeve and lining wrong side out. Place un­derarm seam of lining to underarm seam of sleeve. Pin and baste seam edges together to within 2" of top and lower edge of lining. Turn the sleeve to the right side thus enclosing lining, wrong sides together.

 French tack.

Set in Sleeve. Pin, baste, and stitch sleeve to armhole. Press seam. Remove basting, and the machine stitching for controlling fullness around cap of sleeve. Trim seam to ⅜". Press. Turn arm-hole seam into sleeve.

Shoulder Pads. Position pads and hand stitch seam to pad. Anchor pad to shoulder seam near neckline with a ½" French tack.

A French tack is used to join two surfaces where ease and distance between are desired, such as when anchoring shoulder pads or evenly hold­ing lining in a coat or jacket at hemline.

To form tack take a small stitch in one section, then in opposite section leaving about ½” of thread between to anchor shoulder pad. A 1" tack is used between lining and coat. Repeat until there are 4 or 6 strands of thread; then blanket-stitch over these strands. Keep stitches firm.

Joining Lining. Place wrong side of lining to inside of jacket. Match underarm seams, then pleat to center back of jacket. Pin.

Turn fronts of lining back and baste underarm seam edges together. Smooth fronts of lining and bring to meet front facing. Turn lining edge under and pin to overlap that faces the edge. Baste lin­ing to under part of armhole when shoulder pads are used; otherwise, baste around entire armhole. Turn under seam allowance at neckline. Pin and slip-stitch lining to jacket. Smooth front of lining along shoulder seam and pin. Turn under, pin and slip-stitch shoulder seam allowance of back lin­ing. Slip-stitch front lining to facing. Catch-stitch or bar-tack across pleat at neck and waistline.

To bar-tack, sew several strands of thread or buttonhole twist, taking ¼" or ⅜" stitch across pleat. Overhand these threads, catching a few threads of fabric underneath. When bar is fin­ished, make tiny bar-tacks across each end. This type of stay is also used at ends of pockets.

To finish armhole, draw bobbin thread to ease fullness in cap of sleeve lining. Turn sleeve seam allowance under on stitching line, matching shoulder and underarm seams, and pin lining to armhole. Slip-stitch.

Pin lining to jacket.

Lap turned back edge over front and slip-stitch together.

Slip-stitch sleeve lining to armhole.
Drop-Shoulder Sleeve

For jackets with drop-shoulder sleeves, stitch shoulder and underarm seams of lining. Press seams open. Turn jacket to wrong side. Slip sleeve lining over sleeve, wrong sides together. Adjust lining to center back and neckline. Match sleeve seams and pin, allowing for a slight ease in lining. Tack lining to sleeve seam every three or four inches.

Hems

Sleeve and jacket hems are formed in same way. Turn hem over interfacing. Pin, baste and press. Catch-stitch edge of hem to interfacing. The sleeve lining is finished by turning under edge of sleeve lining and pinning over sleeve hem. Slip-stitch lining to sleeve hem.

The jacket lining at the hem is usually turned and slip-stitched to hem. The lining should be ½' or ¾" shorter than a jacket. Coat linings are hemmed separately.

Fitted or semi-fitted jackets are usually inter­faced, or underlined from waistline to hemline. When interfaced1., the bias interfacing is not used. Turn hem over interfacing, pin and baste. If neces­sary to control fullness at top of hem, use a row of machine stitching with top tension eased slightly. Stitch about ¼" from edge. Draw the bobbin thread to control the fullness. Steam press. Catch-stitch hem to interfacing.

To prevent stretching use a stay of straight seam binding or grosgrain ribbon at the waistline of princess line coats, or fitted jackets. Tack stay to front facing and to seams. There should be a slight ease in the jacket between each point of tacking.

Slip lining over sleeve, wrong sides together.

Turn hem; catch-stitch to   the   interfacing.
Fitted jacket interfaced below waistline.

EDGE FINISHES

Bias Bound Edge

Where collar, lapels, cuffs, or pocket edges are to be bound, pin edges together, wrong sides to­gether with interfacing in between. Baste ¾" from the edge. Trim off seam allowance. Cut bias 3 times the finished width desired plus ¼". Pin bias to right side and stitch, taking a seam the width of the finished binding. Leave ¼” of bias at the ends for turning and finishing. Trim inter­facing to stitching and trim facing to one-half the width of the seam. Turn bias over seam. Press and baste. Turn edge under ¼" and pin to line of stitching. Slip-stitch bias to under collar to con­ceal stitches.

To bind any section with a square corner, allow ¼" at end of bias for turning and finishing. Pin bias to edge. Stitch to seam allowance at corner. Lift presser foot and cut threads. Pull thread to underside and tie. Miter bias, laying fold in bias the width of the seam. Position needle at edge of fold and stitch. When bias is turned to underside, the fold forms a pleat and tapers to point of collar.

When collar is stitched together before joining to neckline and is stitched to shoulder line be­tween front and facing, bind the edge of collar before joining. If lapel is to be bound, do so be­fore joining the collar. Bind edge of cuffs with a shaped or bias facing before attaching to sleeve.

Stitching and mitering for square corner.

Collar bound before joining to neckline.

Machine stitched finish.

Machine Stitched Finish

Carefully baste turned edges of collars, lapels, cuffs, pocket flaps, etc. and press thoroughly.

Mark for line of machine stitching with pins or basting, or use your sewing machine seam guide after setting to desired width. The guide may be positioned at an angle when stitching inside or outside curves. For continuous stitching around lapels and collar, stitch lapel to a point in line with the edge of the collar. Leaving needle in fabric, pivot garment and stitch to edge; then turn garment and stitch following seam line to where collar and facing are joined. Pivot garment on needle and continue stitching around collar. When stitching is started at center back of collar the procedure is reversed.

Prick Stitching

This stitch, also referred to as a "pick stitch," is decorative and appropriate for collars, fronts, pockets, and for detailing seams. Mark line of stitching with chalk or hand basting. Use silk or mercerized thread for lightweight fabrics. But­tonhole twist is best for heavy wool. To make stitch bring needle up through fabric; then, mov­ing needle back a little, go down through fabric.

Prick stitch finish.

After picking up two or three threads run needle between layers of fabric and up to right side. Repeat. The spacing between stitches and the length of "pricks" should vary with fabric weight and texture. For heavy fabrics make length of pricks slightly less than 1/16" and space be­tween stitches 3/16" or ¼”. Shorten for fine fab­rics. Remove basting as you stitch.

Braid

Edges of collars, cuffs, lapels, or pockets to be bound with braid should be finished in the usual way. Pin and shape braid to conform to straight edges, curves, and corners; then baste carefully. Flat braids may be machine stitched or slip-stitched to garment by hand. Braids with raised patterns are applied by hand.

Braid finish.

Over-Collars and Cuffs

Over-collars, cuffs, or pocket flaps made of vel­vet, velveteen, linen, or pique are attached by hand. Over-collars, etc. may be smaller than suit collar or extend to the very edge. Put in a row of machine stitching about 1/16" inside seam al­lowance. Trim edge to ¼" of line of stitching. Baste over-section to section it covers. Turn edge under on seam line and slip-stitch over-section to under-section, concealing all stitches.

When over-collar, pocket flap, cuff, etc. does not extend to the very edge, run a row of hand basting to indicate position for outer edge of top section. Pin and baste over-section in place; then slip-stitch to under-section.

Slip-stitch over-collar to collar.

MAKING A COAT

Catch-stitch interfacing to turn of facing.
Staying opening for buttonholes in facing.

A woven interfacing of heavy muslin, hair canvas or tailor's canvas would be used for most coating fabrics. Follow the same instructions as given for a suit when handling interfacing, pad­ding stitches, trimming seam allowances, etc. Use lightweight muslin for the stay across the shoulders.

When the facing is part of the coat fronts mark fold line with basting. Pin interfacing to front bringing the edge to the fold line. Then catch-stitch interfacing to fabric. Two or more rows of padding stitches should be made to hold inter­facing and fabric together.

Buttonhole Facing

When using heavy coating fabric, or a fabric that frays easily, it is advisable to stay the but­tonhole opening in the facing. This should be done before catch-stitching facing to coat. Care­fully mark the position for opening. Use a sheer fabric of matching color for stay. Place stay on right side of facing centering it over marking. Stitch ⅛" from center line on either side of but­tonhole. Pull threads to underside and tie. Press. Cut opening the same as buttonhole. Turn stay to underside; then press seam and stay away from the opening. Turn facing back from end of buttonhole and stitch across point and stay. Posi­tion stayed opening under buttonhole and slip-stitch together.

Interlining hand-sewed to seams of coat and edge of facing

Interlining

Usually a coat pattern includes a pattern for cutting interlining. If not, and if you wish to inter­line, use the lining pattern omitting the pleat in the back. Where darts occur in the interlining, slash and lap the edges; then machine stitch or catch-stitch together in the same manner as the interfacing. Lap the seam allowances when as­sembling the interlining and stitch through cen­ter. Pin interlining to coat, matching seams. Stitch underneath edge of lap to seams of coat by hand. Interlining should overlap edge of facing about ⅜". Hand baste edge of interlining to facing.

Another method is to place the overlapped seam edges of the interlining over open seams of coat. Pin across the seam, making sure there is suffi­cient ease in interlining. Then catch-stitch the two thicknesses of interlining to the coat seam.

Sleeves

Do not interline the underarm section of a two or three piece sleeve. Cut interlining for outside arm sections; then trim seam allowances at top of sleeve and joining seams. Pin interlining to sleeve placing edge underneath edges of sleeve seams. Catch-stitch seam edges to interlining and inter­lining to sleeve around the top.

For a one piece sleeve cut interlining about 2" narrower on either side than sleeve. Trim seam allowance at top of sleeve. Position interlining to underside of sleeve and catch-stitch to sleeve.

Edge of interlining extending under edge of seams and seams catch-stitched to interlining.

Interlining catch-stitched to a one-piece sleeve.

Lining

Cut lining as carefully as any other part of the coat making sure pattern sections are on true lengthwise and crosswise grains of fabric. Make allowance for a soft pleat at center back. Baste pleat in place. Stitch sections of lining together. If coat has a set-in sleeve, leave shoulder seam open. Press lining thoroughly.

Try on coat and determine position for shoulder pads, if used. Stitch pad to armhole seam, stitch­ing about 2" below shoulder seam on front and back. Anchor pad at neckline with a ½" French tack. Press coat if necessary; then pin lining to coat, matching all seams. Turn fronts of lining back and by hand sew front edge of lining seam to seam of coat. Turn edge of lining at neckline and pin from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. Turn front edges and pin concealing edges of in­terlining or facing.

Turn under back seam allowance of shoulder seam and pin over front edge. Slip-stitch together. Then slip-stitch lining to neckline and fronts to facing. Bar-tack across pleat at center back, at neckline and at waistline. Allow coat to hang for a few hours before turning hems.

Hems

Most coat hems should be interfaced.
First, mark hemline and run a row of hand bast­ing along markings. Measure width of hem and trim away excess fabric.

Lining pinned to coat so seams match.

Bias binding stitched to edge of hem. Hem slip-stitched to interfacing.

Cut a bias strip of preshrunk muslin ½" wider than hem width. Press. Pin to coat holding edge even with basting. Interfacing should be smooth, but do not stretch. Catch-stitch both edges of interfacing to coat fabric. Press lightly. Blend seams from edge to turn of hem. To finish hem edge on heavy coating, machine stitch ¼" from edge of hem. For lighter weight fabric, pink the edge and machine stitch ¼” from edge, or finish edge with bias seam binding. Open one edge of the binding and pin to the hem, right sides to­gether. Stitch on creased line. Turn the binding up, over the edge.

Turn hem on marking and baste ¼" from turn. Pin and baste again near edge of hem. Press; then finish by hand, taking stitches in interfacing and edge of hem.

When coat is interlined, trim interlining 1¼" above turn of hem. Pin lining evenly all around about 5" above hem. Turn lining under interlin­ing. Pin and baste ¼" above turn. Even edge of lining. Turn edge under ¼" and baste through interlining and lining. Finish hem by hand. Either slip-stitch or catch-stitch. Tack lining to hem at seams with 1" long French tacks.

Hem turned and catch-stitched to interfacing

Hemming lining over interlining. Hem interfacing attached.

TAILORED  POCKETS

Lined patch pocket.

The size, placement, number and types of pockets often vary with each new styling trend. How­ever, although there are many styling variations, there are only a few basic pocket types: the patch, the welt, and the stand. If you are duplicating a style of pocket illustrated on a pattern, it is im­portant to follow pattern instruction, perhaps using some of the suggestions herein for addi­tional information. Those who sew creatively, however, will find these instructions most helpful:

Lined Patch Pocket

The simple lined patch pocket is effective when used in pairs, or in varying sizes that are propor­tioned according to their placement.

For this particular pocket, cut garment fabric allowing ⅝" for seams and 1 ½for top hem. Cut lining 2" shorter at the top and ⅛" smaller on other edges. Pin lining to right side of pocket with edges together and turn top of lining down ½. Now, turn pocket hem 11/2 and pin. Baste lining to pocket and also baste across top of hem.

If garment fabric is soft or sheer, hem should be interfaced. Soft interfacing would extend to edges of pocket; hair canvas or other heavy in­terfacing extends only to side seam lines. Cut interfacing and catch-stitch to underside of hem along top edge.

Stay basted to underside of fabric.

Right side showing position of pocket.
Lining and interfacing basted to pocket.

Pocket slip basted to garment before removing stay basting.

Machine stitch around pocket taking full seam allowed, beginning at top and back-stitching at beginning and end. Press and trim seam to ¼". Notch edges as you would for any curved seam; then turn pocket to right side easing seam to underside a full 1/16". Baste and press. Slip-stitch lining to hem. Remove basting. Now, baste a stay to underside of garment fabric in line with markings which indicate placement for pocket. Position pocket. Pin and baste. Slip-stitch pocket to garment taking stitches through fabric and stay, and through underside of pocket edge.

Detailed Patch Pocket

A soft raised effect on the pocket edge and around the pocket is achieved when a heavy wool yarn is used as a filler between the pocket edge and the lines of stitching.

Sew wool yarn to seam.

Prepare and assemble pocket and lining as out­lined for a lined patch pocket on page 45. Use a long diagonal stitch to sew a strand of heavy wool yarn to the seam. Do not pull thread taut. Turn pocket right side out. Baste around pocket easing lining seam to underside. Press. Slip-stitch lining to pocket hem.

Prepare garment for application of pocket as outlined for a lined patch pocket on page 45. In addition, with matching thread machine stitch a guide line for placement of pocket through gar­ment and stay.

Position pocket. Pin and baste. Stitch pocket to garment about ⅜" from edge, or more than ⅜" if pocket is large. (See paragraph below for details.) Then place a second row of stitching in the garment an equal distance from the edge of the pocket. To insert wool yarn in this channel, cut two small openings in garment stay in line with top of pocket. See illustration, Slanted Pocket. Thread small bodkin with two or three strands of wool yarn, or use a small safety pin. Draw yarn between stay and fabric, making sure yarn is not stretched nor taut. Tack ends of yarn to stay.

Slip-stitch edge of pocket to garment covering machine stitching. Remove basting and steam press to finish.

When machine stitched finish is not desirable, finish around the pocket by hand. To do this, first baste pocket in place so its edge overlaps machine basting for placement. Then hand baste at an equal distance from edge of pocket. Insert yarn between outer basting and row of stitching.

With silk, mercerized thread or buttonhole twist, prick stitch along line of basting (page 152), or use short straight stitches, eight or ten to the inch. Then remove basting and press.

Underside showing stay and pocket position.

Pocket machine stitched. Edge of pocket  slip-stitched  to  garment.

Underside of pocket with yarn drawn through   and   tacked   at   each   end.

Right side showing position of slanted pocket. Hand stitched finish.

Pouch and flap positioned to garment and basted.

Patch Pocket with Separate Flap

Follow the same procedures for lining pocket and flap and for interfacing hem as those given for lined patch pocket on page 158.Stitch lining to pocket and flap taking a full ½" seam. Press and trim seam to ¼". After turning pocket and flap to right side, ease seam to underside a full 1/16". Baste edges with long diagonal stitches. Press and slip-stitch lining to hem of pocket. Prepare garment for application of pocket as out­lined for lined patch pocket on pagel58. Position pocket. Pin and baste in place with two rows of basting. Remove pins and stitch pocket to garment ⅜" or ½" from edge by starting at top of hem and continuing around to top on opposite side.

Now, stitch around turned edge of flap from right side, the same distance from the edge you took when stitching around the pocket. Pin and baste flap to garment, matching markings and allowing for a ¼" seam. Stitch and press; then remove bastings and clip off corners of pocket flap seam. Press flap down over pocket. Baste and stitch. Now, draw threads to underside and tie, Remove all basting and steam press.

Pocket turned to right side. Edges basted.
Pattern sections.
Patch pocket with separate flap.
Patch Pocket with Self Flap

The patch pocket with the flap and pocket fabric cut as one piece affords an interesting variation to the simple lined pocket.

Cut pocket section, facing, lining, and inter­facing to the dimensions indicated. The interfac­ing should be of a lightweight, firm fabric. Shape and round corners as illustrated. The grain of the fabric for both pocket and facing should match that of the garment. When garment fabric has a muted stripe or plaid, design at pocket and facing must also match exactly.

Prepare lining section for assembling by turn­ing and pressing the top seam allowance to the underside of the fabric. Place lining and pocket sections so right sides are together. Place facing to upper portion of pocket, right sides together, so facing overlaps turned lining edge. Place in­terfacing for flap to underside of pocket. Pouch section of pocket should be a little fuller than the pocket section above the line that indicates "top of pocket". To achieve this fullness in the flap fac­ing, trim 1/16" from seam allowance of pocket section and from interfacing above this line. This slight fullness in the flap facing allows the seam around the curve of the flap to roll to the under­side in the finished pocket, just as a similar allow­ance causes the seam around the curve of the pocket pouch to roll to the underside of that sec­tion. The pocket, facing, and interfacing sections are now pinned and basted together, edges even, in preparation for machine stitching.

Stitch around entire pocket. Trim seam to scant 1/4" and trim lining edge slightly shorter. Trim interfacing to stitching line. Then trim the seam allowance around the pocket flap section to slightly less than the width of the facing seam. Notch the rounded part of the seam. Turn pocket to right side. Using silk thread, baste edges with diagonal basting stitch, and at the same time, allow the seam to roll to underside around pocket pouch and to underside of the flap when flap is held in its finished position. Steam press edges of both pouch and flap. Remove diagonal basting.

Fold flap to its finished position along line in­dicating "top of pocket" and pin folded edge of lining to facing. Slip-stitch by hand.

Finish pocket flap with machine stitching or prick stitching (see page 152) before applying to garment. Press.

Prepare garment for application of pocket by basting a stay of firm lightweight fabric to under­side of garment so it covers area to which pocket will be stitched.

Position pocket to outside of garment in accord­ance with markings. Pin and baste using two rows of basting. Use one near the edge, and the other a measured distance, ⅜" or ½”, from the edge. Then stitch pocket to garment matching stitching on pocket flap. Press.

When pockets of this type are used on chil­dren's coats or jackets they are, of course, cut to smaller dimensions.

Pocket assembled,  stitched, seam blended and curved edges notched.
Stay basted to underside of fabric.
Patch pocket with self flap.

Welt and pouch section positioned to garment.
Finished pocket on underside

Underside showing stay.

Welt pocket.

Welt Pocket

Pouch sections of pockets in suit jackets and coats are usually made of a lighter weight fabric than that used for the garment. A strip of the garment fabric faces the opening. This strip is 3" or 4" wide, and as long as the width of the pouch. Pouch sections are stitched to edges of the strip, and seams are pressed over pouch. See page 42 for making welt pocket.

Pocket flap, seam blended and notched.

Prepare pouch sections by stitching stand to front pouch and pressing seam toward pouch. Place flap, right side up, over right side of back pouch and baste,

Prepare garment for pocket by marking pocket position with basting or tailor's tacks. Baste stay, large enough to cover entire pocket area, to under­side of garment. Mark width of pocket and cutting line for opening with basting, accurately follow­ing the grain of the garment.

To position pocket sections to garment, pin top edge of stand even with the basting on the gar­ment which indicates the cutting line, right sides together. Then, pin back section of pouch, to which flap has been basted, even with the same basting line, taking care to match sides of flap with basting lines indicating pocket width. Baste securely.

Flap and. pouch sections positioned to garment.

Stitch pocket from inside of garment ¼" above and below basting which indicates cutting line for opening. These lines of stitching must begin and terminate exactly on basting lines which in­dicate pocket width. Pull threads through and tie. Press. Cut through garment and stay on cutting line basting. Cut to within ⅜" from each end. Clip diagonally to within one stitch of each end of stitching on each side.

Draw pocket sections to underside of garment. Press seam edges away from opening. Fold stand section up to fill opening {about a ⅜" fold).

From the right side of the garment, baste stand in position and baste across seam allowances. Machine-stitch stand to seam at each end from the inside. (See page 41.) Hold the seam in place above the flap with diagonal silk thread basting. Steam press.

Prepare for outside stitching detail around pocket. To stay and finish seam across top of pocket on underside of garment, cut a piece of lining fabric 1½" wide and 7" long. Fold through center. Press. Pin fold of strip to top stitching line. Whip fold to stitching line by hand and baste to garment across top edge. This strip adds body to the stitching detail, as well as concealing and controlling seam at top of pocket.

Mark lines for top stitching around pocket. Make a pattern the exact width and length of the pocket. Round the corners. Next, place pattern over pocket with top edge under flap. Mark around pattern with tailor's chalk; then tailor tack or baste. Measure across the top ½”from this line and mark. Baste the four thicknesses together carefully. Beginning at top of stand, stitch around to top at other end. Then stitch around again, but this time continue across the top.

Basting through garment, stay and pouch sections   in   preparation   for   stitching.

Triangle -flap pattern.

Welt Flap Pocket

The size of this pocket depends on placement and type of garment, such as suit jacket, skirt, or coat. The flap may be of any design and is a deco­rative extension of the welt turned downward. The triangular shape is a good choice for checks and plaids as well as for plain fabrics. Several ad­ditional designs are illustrated.

To cut triangular welt and flap take a square of fabric with the width required for the pocket plus a ¼" seam on all edges. Fold square diago­nally by bringing two opposite corners together. Trim points at ends of fold to width of pocket allowing ¼" at each end for seam. Cut on fold. Cut interfacing the same size as triangle. Baste interfacing to underside of top section and make the buttonhole. (See page 34.) Place top and fac­ing sections of triangle together, right sides to inside, and stitch across- ends and around point taking ¼" seam. Press. Blend seam; then trim off point and corners close to line of stitching.

Cut a crosswise strip of garment fabric approxi­mately 1¼" longer than width of pocket opening and 3" wide. From lining fabric cut pocket pouch sections the depth of the pocket and as wide as the length of the fabric strip. Stitch pouch section to each side of strip taking ¼" seam. Press seams down over pouch sections.

Fold and crease strip 1" above front pouch sec­tion. Now, cut a stay of taffeta, muslin, or lawn 2" wider and 2" longer than pocket opening.

Baste stay to underside of fabric over markings for pocket opening. By hand or machine basting, mark across each end for length of finished pocket opening. Now baste two rows ⅜" apart for width of pocket opening. (See page 46).

Next place flap, right side up, to right side of garment so straight unfinished edge overlaps lower edge of opening by ¼". Baste flap to gar­ment over previous basting. Press. Place strip crease on top line of opening, right side to gar­ment. Pin and baste. See page 42 for stitching and finishing.

Cutting detail for pocket opening.

Other pocket flap designs.
Underside of finished pocket.

Welt flap pocket.

Welt Pocket—Slanted

The finished pocket opening is usually 7"; the depth of the pouch is 8½"-
Cut patterns in accordance with shapes and dimensions illustrated and transfer grain lines to pattern.

Cut pouch sections out of lining fabric, and welt and upper part of pouch back out of garment fabric. Use the same type of interfacing for the welt that you used for collar and facing. When using hair canvas interfacing, do not include it in machine-stitched seams along the top and the sides.

Make welt, placing top welt and facing so right sides are together and so interfacing is to facing. Stitch. Press and blend seams. Turn welt to right side. Baste edges with diagonal silk thread bast­ing. Steam press. Remove basting, and machine stitch from right side ½" to ⅝" from edge. The seam guide will aid in keeping this stitching straight and an even distance from the edge.

Stitch the two back sections of the pouch to­gether and press seam toward lower section.

Prepare garment for pocket application by stay­ing underside with a lightweight, firmly woven fabric. Mark the cutting line and the ends of the pocket with basting.

Apply pocket sections to garment by placing open edge of welt on basting line and ends of welt on end markings. Pin. Place front pouch section over welt. Pin and baste. Pin back of pouch section above line and baste. Machine stitch from underside of garment ¼" on each side of cutting line basting. Terminate the two lines of stitching evenly and take end stitches of first line of stitching over edge of welt. Pull threads through to underside and tie. Press as stitched. Cut opening to within ⅜" of ends along cutting line basting. Then clip diagonally to with­in one stitch of each end.

Stay basted to underside.

Pocket sections basted in position. Welt stitched and pressed.
Welt, facing and interfacing stitched and seam blended.
Welt turned to right side and basted.

Underside of finished pocket, Ends of welt blind-stitched, through stay and garment.

Turn pouch sections to underside and turn welt up. Press seam edges and triangular tabs at each end away from opening. Turn back of pouch sec­tion down and pin edges together. Stitch across tabs at ends of opening as close to welt as pos­sible. Then stitch around pocket.

The ends of the welt are hand stitched securely through garment and stay, using buttonhole twist on heavy fabrics.

Slanted welt pocket.

Bound, Slot or Buttonhole Pocket

For a 4½" long by ½" wide pocket opening, cut two strips from garment fabric: one 6" wide by 2½" in depth, and one 6" wide by 3¾" in depth. Cut two sections for the pouch of the lining fabric 6" by 6". Cut stay of lightweight, firmly woven fabric 6" wide and 3" in depth.

Prepare garment for pocket application by bast­ing stay to underside and by marking cutting line and ends of pocket opening with basting. See page 40 under stand pocket.

Stitch pouch sections to strips of garment fab­ric. Press seams as stitched; then press seam edges down over pouch sections.

Fold widest garment fabric strip 1½" from the top. Place fold on cutting line, right sides to­gether.  Pin  and baste.  Stitch between basting; lines which mark ends of pocket, ¼" from cutting line on both sides. Pull threads through to under­side and tie. Cut along cutting line to within ⅜" of ends. Then clip diagonally to within one stitch of each end. Turn pouch section to underside. Press seam edges and triangular tabs away from opening. Fold fabric strip on each side of opening so folded edges meet at center. (See pages 34 and 35 for buttonhole patch method.) Baste folded edges together with diagonal silk thread basting. Turn garment back. Stitch across tabs at each end and along seam edges of opening. Press from the wrong side on press pad.

Pin back section of pouch, to front section. Round corners of pouch. Now, stitch across top and around the pouch. Pink or overcast seam edges. Press.