Free Sewing Pattern Sitemap

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Introduction - Here's an easy guide to expert sew­ing,   the   complete   eight   step Singer sewing course, just as it is taught by qualified Singer experts. Its clear diagrams and simplified instructions take you through every dressmaking step from fabric selection to the final button.

01. About Fabrics - Fabrics are ever new and an inspiration to one who sews. Each year, new develop­ments in synthetic fibers and in the blend­ing of synthetic and pure fibers offer many excit­ing variations in textures and designs.

It is often difficult to distinguish the fabrics of the natural fibers from those of synthetic or blended fibers.

02. About Patterns - Patterns are made to conform with cer­tain standard measurements. Allowance is made for ease or fullness at bust, across shoulder, at waistline, hip and upper arm. The amount   of  fullness   depends   on  the  type   of fabric used. Sheer fabrics, such as chiffons, net, laces, etc., require greater fullness in treatment than linens, firm crepes, cottons and woolens.

03. Sewing A Pleasure - A fully equipped sewing room is ideal, of course, but a corner in a room near a window can be made convenient and attractive. Limit your equipment to essentials: sewing machine, chair or stool, mirror, storage space and pressing equipment. They should be the best you can afford. First consider your sew­ing machine, for it is most important. There are several types available so select the one which best suits your requirements. Then learn how to use all the attachments.

04. Why Wherefores 1 + 2 - WHY is a knowledge of fabrics important?

BECAUSE with this knowledge, selec­tion of fabric can be made for fashion Tightness of design, for individuality, for wearing qualities and for good values.

WHY press as you sew? WHY have a special nook or room in which
to sew?

WHY test and adjust a pattern?

BECAUSE correct altering of a pat­tern saves errors in cutting, retains orig­inal lines of the design, and avoids tedious fittings later on

05. Pattern Layout .3 - You have studied your pattern and se­lected the pattern pieces for the ver­sion of the design you are going to make. You have compared measurements and made the adjustments necessary. Good fit starts with the adjustment of the pattern to your own measurements.

06. Whys Wherefores 3 - BECAUSE a trial layout avoids mis­takes; such as, reversing fabrics with a definite up and down or one-way design, omitting a piece of the pattern, or find­ing out too late that there is not sufficient yardage.

BECAUSE the pattern must be placed on the fabric so that the design is con­tinuous at all seams. The beauty of the finished garment is the matching of the design in the fabrics.

07. Fitting .4 - prepare garment for fitting by first pin­ning in position all darts, pleats, tucks or gathers, just as you did in the pattern, before making the adjustments.  Match tailors' tacks or other marking and pin. Then baste. For darts, start at outer edge and baste along marking indicating point of dart.

08. Whys Wherefores 4 - WHY pin and baste?

BECAUSE in fitting, particularly the first fitting, it is so easy to make adjust­ments. Then too, pinning and basting in­sure accuracy in matching markings and in machine stitching.

09. Basting + Seams .5 - before fitting for shoulder line and un­derarm seams be sure to stay stitch the neckline, shoulder and the waistline of the skirt just inside the seam allowance.

All darts, tucks, pleats, bound buttonholes and pockets have been stitched and pressed.

10. Whys Wherefores 5 - WHY stay stitch?

BECAUSE stay stitching prevents shaped edges; such as, a neckline, shoulder line and waistline, from stretching in fit­ting and handling of the garment.

WHY slip baste?

BECAUSE plaids and striped fabrics or shaped sections of a garment can be more accurately matched and stitched if the seams are first slip basted from the right side.

11. Seam Finishes .6 - A seam is the joining together of two or more edges of fabric. Line in dress con­struction is  expressed through seams, just as the artist expresses line through brush strokes. Well made seams should be smooth, flat and practically invisible unless emphasized by some special treatment.

12. Whys Wherefores 6 - WHY finish inside seams?

BECAUSE an inside finish insures a longer lasting garment and because an inside finish adds to the garment's gen­eral appearance

WHY are there two methods for joining a collar?

BECAUSE a collar that is worn closed should hug the neckline. Therefore Method One is preferable. If the collar is worn open, the alternate joining method would apply.

13. Setting in Sleeves .7 - one or two rows of machine stitching, slightly shorter than stitch length used in dress construction, are used to control ease in the cap of the sleeve. The first row of stitching is placed a scant 1/16" outside the seam line from notch to notches. Place second row, if desired, Vs" from first row.

14. Whys Wherefores 7 - WHY reinforce curved seams?
WHY machine stitch around top of sleeve?
WH Y is there an underlay in a skirt placket?
WHY line an applied belt?

BECAUSE the stitching controls the ease which is necessary for shaping the cap, or curved part of the sleeve.

BECAUSE there is usually more strain on inside curved seams, and reinforcing helps to prevent seam breaking.

15. Hems + Finishes .8 - The garment should be practically fin­ished before marking the hem. A skirt that hangs smoothly is a result of cor­rect pattern adjustment, proper consideration for fabric grain and good pressing. Be sure all seams are finished and pressed, and markings and bast­ings are removed (except skirt center front and center back bastings). Try on dress for final in­spection and fitting wearing foundation garment, slip and shoes that will be worn with the dress.

16. Whys Wherefores 8 - WHY are there several methods for putting in hems?
WHY make covered belts?
WHY make belt loops or carriers?
WHY make corded button loops?

BECAUSE this type of finishing de­tail holds a belt in place and should be part of any well-made garment, as are holders for lingerie straps and French tacks for anchoring shoulder pads.

17. Pressing - In addition to the pressing equipment sug­gested in Step Two, you may find the seam board helpful when pressing seams in collars, in hard to get at corners, or when press­ing any seam that should be pressed open and very smooth before turning to the inside.

A tailor's cushion is convenient for shaping the fabric when making dressmaker suits or coats, One may be purchased, but it is easy to make. It should be made of a heavy closely woven fabric such as drill cloth.

18. Sheer Fabrics - What is a sheer? "Sheer" as defined by Webster when related to fabrics means "very thin", "thin", "transparent", "to shine through", "translucent" or "diaphanous".

Therefore, a sheer fabric may be of any fiber or combination of fibers, woven with any one of several yarn types of weaves, and finished into a crisp bodied fabric or a soft and supple one. Thinness, therefore, is the only distinguishing characteristic which will qualify a fabric to be typed as "sheer".

19. Underlining Fabrics - An underlining of firm, lightweight, pre-shrunk fabric is used to back a section of a garment, or the complete garment, depending on design and fabric. Most fabrics, such as soft silks, matt jersey, wool jersey, woolens, lace, fine cottons, linen and knit fabrics, should be underlined for good fit and shape retention.

20. Tailoring - Tailoring is a method of garment con­struction. In its purest meaning it im­plies the use of sewing techniques which result in a garment impeccably shaped, inter­faced,  stayed,  and lined to hold its  contours through many wearings and cleanings. Coats and suits are the most familiar examples of garments employing tailoring methods.

THE END